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Old August 8, 2012, 08:13 AM   #1
cobaltsmith
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Reloading 7mm Remington mag & .300 Win Mag. Lubricant Options.

I'm VERY new to reloading. Going on about a year now.

I have a Lee press and use the same model Dies. I USED to use a spray lubricant. After sticking 2 7mm shells and ruining one die. I need new options. At 30$ a die this could get expensive fast.

I'm just looking for lubricant ideas from some vets that would help me out with these higher caliber rounds. I also reload British 303, 30.06 and 7mm 08 rounds as well.

*Basically the family went in on the reloading stuff and I reload for everyone*. I've done tons of research and reading on everything to make sure I'm doing it safely. However, there isn't a whole lot on lubricants. At least, not where I've been looking. Mostly I just find ads for lubes.

Appreciate any help you guys can offer. Thanks much.
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Old August 8, 2012, 08:26 AM   #2
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Imperial Sizing Die Wax.
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Old August 8, 2012, 08:31 AM   #3
wncchester
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Any commercial case lube is fine IF it's used correctly. Seems a lot of people don't even look at the directions for using spray lubes. Imperial is good (so are all the others) but failure to apply it correctly will lead to stuck cases with it too.

A stuck case remover is a lot less costly than replacing a die set.

Shotguns use shells, we use cases.
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Old August 8, 2012, 08:38 AM   #4
cobaltsmith
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So the assumption is I didn't follow the directions. As I pointed out, I'm new *relatively speaking* to reloading. Which means, as a rule of thumb, I follow all directions to a T. That asside, the cases still got stuck. I won't be using that lubricant again. Appreciate the suggestion for the stuck case remover, however.

Thank you very much sundog for the very simple and direct suggestion for the wax. I will look into it.

Last edited by cobaltsmith; August 8, 2012 at 08:47 AM.
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Old August 8, 2012, 08:52 AM   #5
AllenJ
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I've been using RCBS case lube for 30+ years and it has not let me down yet. Put a drop of lube at the corner of the pad to roll you case neck brush in it, one application last 4-6 rounds. Put a few drops in the middle of the lube pad, work them into the pad with your finger, and lightly roll the cases over it.
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Old August 8, 2012, 10:12 AM   #6
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I like Redding Imperial sizing wax.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/519...izing-wax-2-oz

I don't use expander balls, so I don't lube inside the neck.

But back when I started handloading, 13 years ago I got a Rockchucker kit. It came with RCBS lube and a brush to put the stuff inside the neck. I used the expander balls that came with the rifle sizing dies.

I think all beginning handloaders should use that little brush and expander balls until they are initiated into the brotherhood of advanced reloaders. Then comes sizing wax, 7mmRM loads not in the handbooks, and the secret handshake.
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Old August 8, 2012, 12:58 PM   #7
jwrowland77
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I reload for the 7mm Rem Mag and had a stuck case with the first one. Then I went out to the local big box store and bought some Mink Oil wax from the shoe department. It works great as a lube. I've read this other places as well is the reason I tried it. Haven't had a stuck case since I started using it.
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Old August 8, 2012, 01:50 PM   #8
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Never stuck a case with Imperial.

Just be sure to keep it off the shoulder or you will get dents.

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Old August 8, 2012, 02:59 PM   #9
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Imperial Case Lube and Graphite powder for the necks.
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Old August 8, 2012, 04:16 PM   #10
FiveInADime
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I use Dillon case lube. It's a pump-spray liquid which is made from lanolin suspended in alcohol. Very effective and easy for everyday sizing. I used imperial before I got the Dillon and it works awesome, as well.

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Old August 8, 2012, 05:16 PM   #11
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You don't have to buy new dies each time you get one stuck. There are ways of gettng that case out.
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Old August 8, 2012, 05:28 PM   #12
cobaltsmith
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Yeah Joe. I was a total newb and tried to use the pin to get the case out. . . . Bent the pin. I took it to a machine shop and had it straightened perfectly. Still don't want to use it until I get a better lube.
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Old August 9, 2012, 06:36 AM   #13
Sure Shot Mc Gee
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I don't know if you have this tool available for your use. But it sounds like you could use one. {RCBS-or-Redding Stuck Case Removal tool) For a case lube'ing itself. I just use a simple RCBS Case Lube Pad. And use the suggested liquid lubrication for that pad also made by RCBS. (little squeeze bottle w/ 2-oz of shell lube contained) If I have trouble with case necks while resizing. I just dip those shells necks into Frankford Arsenal Fine Powdered Mica prior to resizing. Both the lube pad and the mica have saved me allot of disappointment over the years. Haven't incurred a stuck shell in many years using that system noted (above)
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Old August 9, 2012, 07:48 AM   #14
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I have never gotten a case stuck in a die. Nevertheless, If you are using full-length sizing dies, and you are only loading for a particular rifle with that die, you can back the die off from the shell holder and only neck size the case. Then, not only will the hand load be potentially more accurate, but there will be a much less likelyhood of getting the case stuck. Usually it is not necessary or desireable to full-length size most of the time.
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Old August 9, 2012, 09:18 AM   #15
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Spray Lube

If you're going to use spray lube be sure and spray cases at an angle sufficient to get some spray in the case mouth. I use the Hornady lube and follow directions on the can holding cases in loading block at 45 degree angle and spraying all sides. This eliminates stuck cases, which you will get if you only spray the outside of the cases. The spray does not contaminate powder and I find it less messy than other products. You can wipe of any excess from the cases after you resize. I've been using it since it came out years ago. I'm new here like you but I've been loading for over 50 years.

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Old August 9, 2012, 09:27 AM   #16
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Quote:
I won't be using that lubricant again.
Let me guess, Hornady one shot????¿

That story about stuck cases gets repeated on these forums about 4 times each year. Each time it's the infamous HOS that's to blame. The problem is with the application. It HAS to be uniform from top to the bottom ,(head), of the case. The head/base is the most difficult to size, so it requires the most lube. If the spray doesn't cover there, the case gets stuck. Setting the cases in a loading block so the head/base is down in a deep hole, then spraying them, results in the head not getting any lube.

Then there's the expense of the HOS. A tin of imperial will last for years, a can of HOS maybe a month. Compare prices, it's very expensive. Another thing, HOS is a wax suspended in a solvent carrier. If you DON'T give the carrier time to evaporate, the wax won't/don't work, stuck case again!

I use the midway FA spray lube. Identical to the dillon stuff. I simply toss the shells to be lubed in a tub,(ice cream container), spray a couple of squirts into-onto the cases, then shake-rattle-and roll them around for a minute. Some of the lube gets inside the necks so I don't have to worry about the expander drag.
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Old August 9, 2012, 11:01 AM   #17
cobaltsmith
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Tons of great advice. I appreciate everyones time and help. It would appear that I simply didn't apply it completely uniform. Meticulous following of directions can leave the simplest of things out.

I found some information for making my own lubricant and I think that may be the best way to go. It's 100% pure lanolin in 99% Alcohol. 4oz Lanolin to 16oz Alcohol.

Found at this site: http://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm#Sizing

Does anyone have any pointers or advice regarding this direction for case lube? I'm not sure if I mentioned or not; I do bulk bursts of reloading. Reload hard and heavy for a couple days to run between 200 and 400 rounds total. *All tumbling and cleaning done before hand*.

I accept that, relatively speaking, I'm new to the trade and welcome the experience of others. AND appreciate it. So, thank you guys very much once again.
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Old August 9, 2012, 12:03 PM   #18
FiveInADime
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Essentially you would be duplicating the Dillon or Midway case lubes. One bottle of either lasts forever. If you make it, just make sure you store it in an air tight bottle so the alcohol doesn't evaporate too fast. Just make a small amount.

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Old August 9, 2012, 02:19 PM   #19
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I'll second the mink oil shoe polish.It's all I have evr used
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Old August 9, 2012, 05:12 PM   #20
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I never used to believe this, but even lubed properly using the BEST sizing lube, you can stick a case. I bought some once fired brass (22-250) and some must have been sized in a rifle with a severely oversized chamber. I tired several different lubes (including my favorite and Imperial) and for those cases, it would stick. It took incredible force on a RockChucker to force it in the die.

So do yourself a favor and use a stuck case remover. All you really need is a 1/4-20 tap and the proper size drill. Add a bolt and a socket, and you can remove any stuck case. Back off the expander stem, drill out the primer pocket and tap it. Then you use the bolt and just back the case out of the die. As soon as it moves, it comes out easily. If you lack the basics just buy the RCBS version.

While I use something else, Imperial will do the best job lubing IMHO. It is just a little slow for me. Absolutely no reason to damage a die due to a stuck case.
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Old August 9, 2012, 06:34 PM   #21
wncchester
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"I bought some once fired brass (22-250) and some must have been sized in a rifle with a severely oversized chamber. I tired several different lubes (including my favorite and Imperial) and for those cases, it would stick."

I don't know what happened to you but I routinely reform .30-06 and .270 cases into .243 and .22-250 without sticking and I doubt that firing your cases in another .22-250 chamber would have as much difference as that. But I do properly apply a case lube, ANY commericial case lube and several excellant substitutes as well. But I don't care for expensive, messy and wasteful spray case lubes at all. YMMV.

No one ever had a case get stuck in a die because they didn't lube inside the neck.
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Old August 9, 2012, 07:42 PM   #22
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Quote:
I don't know what happened to you but I routinely reform .30-06 and .270 cases into .243 and .22-250 without sticking and I doubt that firing your cases in another .22-250 chamber would have as much difference as that. But I do properly apply a case lube,
I haven't had the need to reform any brass, so I don't have experience with the effort required to do so.

Until I encountered the 22-250 brass I mentioned, I had sized over 60K bottleneck rifle rounds and if I recall correctly stuck a grand total of 2 cases. Both my fault for having a momentary lapse of good judgement. Sounds like something else was in play on this particular brass. Pretty sure I know how to properly apple lube.
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