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Old March 24, 2012, 03:49 PM   #51
Dave McC
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I THINK they interchange, but ask Remington at that number I gave you.
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Old March 26, 2012, 06:41 PM   #52
birddogs
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Dave,

Been thinking about this since our last post. Think I'll get the choke tubes, rebuild the springs, etc, and have it re-blued and refinished. Neat gun and I don't have a 16 gauge. Somebody has to keep these things alive even if they don't pay for themselves in the long run. Of course, we'll see what the smithy says about the cost. We have a young guy locally here in VA who does nice work from what I've seen. Good opportunity to see what he's got without losing a high dollar collector.

Now all I need is someone to talk me out of it!
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Old March 27, 2012, 04:09 PM   #53
Dave McC
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Sorry,ain't gonna try to to talk you out of it when "Right" is written all over that last post.

I've NEVER heard of a maintained A5/11/720 wearing out from use.

New springs and rings every 10K rounds, your "new" upland gun should last a few more generations.

Enjoy!!
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Old April 8, 2012, 04:33 PM   #54
birddogs
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Remington Sportsman

Well Dave, she is off to the smithy. Stock to be stripped and oil finished, reblued, choke tubes, springs, new recoil pad, etc. Guy said he will send barrel off to Orlen anyway. Can't wait....
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Old April 10, 2012, 02:25 PM   #55
Dave McC
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Great! I love happy beginnings...
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Old July 6, 2012, 08:52 PM   #56
birddogs
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got it back

Dave,

Got my Sportsman back from the smithy and he did a beautiful job. Re-blued it and refinished the stock. No sign that I lost any wood - the fit seems just like new. It was marked "Grade B" if you recall and the wood is really quite impressive. I found an article somewhere stating that even the Sportsman came in different grades but now I can't find it again.

Took it out the same day I got it back and shot a couple of pigeons off the top of a grain silo (in flight, mind you) at a distance that surprised me. Functioned flawlessly. Good solid gun and I enjoyed the 16 gauge.

I sent it back to the smith cause I wanted the old pad replaced as it was a bit funky after all these years but will keep the original. Also I may send the barrel to Orlen as you suggested for tubes but I can't complain about the pattern I got on those pigeons.

I shoot at field trials a lot when I'm not running my own dogs and would love to use it there but they frown on anything but double barrels.

Do you happen to have any suggestions regarding tubes? I see Mike used Colonial and Truelock. Preference?

And again, many thanks for the help with this great gun.
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Old July 6, 2012, 09:31 PM   #57
Dave McC
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You're quite welcome. I'm glad to help.

Here, there's tubes from Beretta and Remington, for factory stuff. Also, Seminole(extended), Hastings, Colonial, Carlson's, etc, as aftermarket.

They all work and have been tested. The only tube I ever found wanting was a Remchoke. Non concentric and POI differed. Gave it back to the dealer and the replacement was satisfactory.

I've shot birds at field trials but not recently. Used 870s.

Good idea on the pad.

Good luck,you've a fine shotgun.....
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Old July 10, 2012, 11:53 AM   #58
MasterSergeantA
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One of my Model 11s jams on the first round and has to be disassembled to get the fired round out. A local gunsmith said that there is a pin in the bolt that is hanging up, but he doesn't want to deal with getting the bolt out and replacing the pin. Is taking the bolt out of the gun really that hard? Anyone got detailed disassembly instructions handy?
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Old July 10, 2012, 03:26 PM   #59
Salmoneye
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There are more vids than this on YouTube...

I just happen to like this guy ;-)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAPY84sR1wY

BTW...If the gun has to be "disassembled" to get it to fire again, then why doesn't the guy that "disassembled" it fix it while it is "disassembled"...
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Old July 11, 2012, 10:59 AM   #60
MasterSergeantA
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I am "the guy that 'disassembled' it" to get the fired shell out. I didn't want to attempt any further teardown without some kind of instructions. Looking at the exploded diagram on the Gun Parts website, it doesn't appear that tearing the bolt down would be a huge issue, but I haven't attempted it yet.

Thanks for the link!
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Old July 11, 2012, 11:13 AM   #61
Salmoneye
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I guess I am still confused...

When you say 'disassembled' how far are you tearing down?

Just removing the barrel?

Exactly what happens when you fire a round?
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Old July 11, 2012, 05:12 PM   #62
MasterSergeantA
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Sorry for the confusion. I only have to "disassemble" as far as taking the barrel off which then allows me to retract the bolt and remove the fired shell. When you pull the trigger, it goes "boom". Then it fails to extract/eject and the bolt remains locked up. Again, once I get the barrel loose and started moving, the bolt unlocks.

I'm going to get a couple of spare parts and see about tearing into the little beast. We don't currently have a qualified gunsmith around here.

Last edited by MasterSergeantA; July 11, 2012 at 05:47 PM.
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Old July 11, 2012, 07:32 PM   #63
Salmoneye
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Auto-5 Brownings, Model 11's, and clones ALL lock the bolt to the barrel till the barrel moves fully rearward during firing...

The entire bolt/barrel assembly moves rearward as one under recoil...

Then the bolt 'locks' back, the barrel returns forward stripping/ejecting the fired shell, and THEN The bolt moves forward chambering the next round...

Sounds to me more like your entire barrel/bolt is not moving completely rearward due to the friction rings being set incorrectly...
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Old July 12, 2012, 10:58 AM   #64
MasterSergeantA
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Thank you.
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