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Old June 27, 2012, 06:25 PM   #1
Bigguy6907
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Help identify unmarked 1851 replica

I have an 1851 Colt Navy replica .36cal with no serial number, mfr, model#.
It has two markings. "PN" and "AD" in a small box. It's suggested that it is Italian. I need to buy a couple of parts for it, but wanted to know for sure what the Mfr is. Armi San Paolo maybe? AD=1978?

Thanks,

Bigguy6907
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Last edited by Bigguy6907; June 29, 2012 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Found additional information
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Old June 27, 2012, 07:31 PM   #2
samcolt1860
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Quote:
The backstrap is solid all the way around including the trigger guard.
No it isn't. I can see in the photo where the backstrap and trigger guard join. It's all brass, so sometimes it is hard to see.
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Old June 27, 2012, 08:02 PM   #3
Hawg Haggen
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The cylinder doesn't appear to be rebated so it would be a .36 not a .44. With the brass frame it's not Uberti unless its an older one. It should have a manufacturers logo on it somewhere, maybe on the bottom barrel flat. There should be a date code, either Roman numerals or two letters in a box.
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Old June 27, 2012, 09:04 PM   #4
Hellgate
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From the grip shape, it does not look like a Pietta. It may be a "defarbed" repro where the Italian manufactureres marks have been removed and made to look "period" for reinactor use.
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Old June 27, 2012, 09:08 PM   #5
Fingers McGee
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From the lack of any markings whatsoever, I'd hazard a guess that it is an Armi San Marco or Armi San Pedro kit gun.
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Old June 28, 2012, 03:17 AM   #6
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Folks,

Wouldn't the AD be the date code?
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Old June 28, 2012, 07:16 AM   #7
Hawg Haggen
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Yeah Doc but he edited his post late last night. It wasn't there before.

AD is the date code for 1978. PN is the black powder proof and there should be a star over shield which is the provisional proof.

Armi san Pedro, huh Fingers? I always thought it was Armi san Paulo.
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Old June 28, 2012, 09:55 AM   #8
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Hawg,

Give a guy some slack, won't you?


;o)
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Old June 28, 2012, 10:30 AM   #9
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I think Fingers meant Armi san PABLO? Pedro would be Peter, Pablo for Paul(o).

;>)
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Old June 28, 2012, 12:17 PM   #10
Hawg Haggen
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Quote:
Hawg,
Give a guy some slack, won't you?
Why?
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Old June 28, 2012, 02:53 PM   #11
Fingers McGee
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Mea Culpa, you are correct, it is Armi San Paulo. I don't know what I was thinking - apparently I wasn't. Give me a break, I was on the road all day driving to Cheyenne for Hell on Wheels and was tired.

Now that he has edited the OP to say that there are date code and BP proof marks, I'll retract my thought that it might be a kit gun. I'll still say it's an ASM or ASP though
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Old June 28, 2012, 03:36 PM   #12
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Fingers,

I am inclined to agree with you.

But I would also add to your reasons for missing the manufacturer the fact that you are starting to pile on the years.

;o)


That always works for me.
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Old June 28, 2012, 10:18 PM   #13
Fingers McGee
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I'm still only 39 Doc. Been a long time member of the Jack Benny birthday cloub.
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Old June 29, 2012, 05:15 AM   #14
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Ah, Yeah.....yeah....39....That's right......Me to.

But back to Bigguy's question.

For ASM it is supposed to be Deer Creek of Waldron, Indiana. (765 area code)

For Euroarms ASP it is Winchester Sutler - in Winchester, VA (540 area code)

DGW (Union City, TN.) referes to such parts as "parts for italian revolvers" when you talk to them on the phone. That is a very general term but probably pretty accurate. These two manufacturers have been our the cap and ball business long enough that the bulk of original parts are out of the system. What are now sold as ASM or ASP parts are (I think) post OEM parts manufactured by who-knows-whom.

Prepare to do some filing and fitting on the parts you buy.

If you have not done this, don't shy away from it. It is a lot of fun.

If you describe the symptoms of the pistol that make you want to go to work on the innards, some of the smart guys here can steer you in the right direction. (On the other hand it looks like you already are pretty sharp on what you are doing.)

Tnx,
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Old June 29, 2012, 04:10 PM   #15
Bigguy6907
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Thanks for the info-Completed repair last night

Thanks for all the info. I never realized there was so much history in the replica world.
The problem is was having was that the bolt would retract and then pop up before it reach half cock.
I solve this by ever so slightly bending the hammer side of bolt fork toward the hammer. This added tension and kept the bolt engaged with hammer as it went to half cock.
Let me know it this sounds correct.

With all the internet help on how to tune a Pietta, I was able to figure this out.
I work as a Biomedical Engineer (Medical Equipment), but I'm not a paper pusher, I work with my hands.

Once again, thanks for all of the responses.

PS. It is a .36 cal, I measured it.

Bigguy6907
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Old June 29, 2012, 07:56 PM   #16
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Good job, Dude

I would say this is a pretty classic problem with a pretty classic fix.
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