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Old April 27, 2012, 05:33 PM   #1
BerdanSS
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I bought it & Now questions about said Pietta

What is the going rate for a used, but like new pietta '51 Navy in .44? It's blued and seems to have a nicer finish and case hardening than most. It is an older pistol. Thinking of picking it up this weekend but not sure what price to offer...I haven't bought one in a while and dont want to pay more than its worth.

Last edited by BerdanSS; April 29, 2012 at 11:20 AM.
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Old April 27, 2012, 06:05 PM   #2
chaz12
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1851 navies in .44 caliber are 299 dollars brand new at Cabelas. However 1851s in 36 caliber are only 239. The 1860 army in .44 is also 239.

Used percussion revolvers in good shape seem to go for about 200 dollars or a little more on gunbroker. Don't know why when you can buy a new one for 239.

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Old April 27, 2012, 08:06 PM   #3
BerdanSS
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Cool....I guess I'd be good then. I think I can get it for $150. It looks to be in excellent shape. And it turns out it's an older Uberti, not a pietta. Got my fingers crossed. Post pictures tomorrow if I get lucky

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Old April 28, 2012, 05:08 AM   #4
Doc Hoy
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For a steel frame revolver...

....150.00 is a good price.
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Old April 28, 2012, 11:50 AM   #5
BerdanSS
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I got a new '51 I already had a few, but once again proving you can never have to many Navy Models


One question though, everything is rock solid tight; but the cylinder. When "pointing" the pistol at full cock, the cylinder is rock solid engaged with the bolt if you attempt to turn it right. However if lite pressure is applied, the cylinder can be rotated 1/8 of an inch or a little less to the left (against the direction of turn) Is this a problem? Not one of any other colt pattern pistol I've ever owned of shot do this.

Also the seller was mistaken, it is a pietta. But he bought it brand new, fired it five or six times; and didn't like it. So it was cleaned and placed in a display case until today, It looks basically new

Last edited by BerdanSS; April 28, 2012 at 02:36 PM.
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Old April 28, 2012, 03:33 PM   #6
Doc Hoy
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Hmmmm

Seems like it should not move as you describe.

two questions:

1. If you move it to the left and then move it back to the right, does the bolt click into position? (An indication that it was not quite seated i the first place which is unlikely)

2. If you cock the hammer all the way back so the pistol goes into battery, when you release your thumb pressure from the hammer does the hammer move forward more than you experience on other revolvers? An indication that the trigger sear is a tiny bit short.

I think that as long a the revolver remains in battery indexed properly it does not seem like much of a problem. But if the cylinder moves to the left with very little effort, with the implication that it would move out of battery slightly just because you move the pistol or change it's position (unlikely) it seems like you might try a new trigger.
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Old April 28, 2012, 04:34 PM   #7
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Sounds to me that the hand is doing the indexing and the bolt is NOT engaging the bolt notches on the cylinder.
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Old April 28, 2012, 04:55 PM   #8
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Maybe the bolt is a lil too wide for the slot?
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Old April 28, 2012, 05:05 PM   #9
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robhof

Had a problem with my 1849 clone not locking up and thanks to a member at THR, I checked the hole the bolt goes through and found rough milling and a bur on the inside of the frame and after some polishing and light sanding it now locks up tight. Always check for the easy fix before investing in parts. Also check that bolt tip fits in notches of cylinder and adjust if not a fit, remove metal from the side that doesn't stop at the sharp end of the cylinder notch as you'll increase side to side play.
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Old April 29, 2012, 11:16 AM   #10
BerdanSS
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Doc,

Answer to question 1: no

Answer to Question 2: yes, my Ubertis' don't do it at all where as this one (with the hammer fully drawn to the rear as far as it will go) springs forward about 1/16 of an inch or better.

Full dismantling of the pistol reviles better parts fit and finishing than I've ever seen on a pietta before. The hole for the bolt is not only clean but even looks polished, and pressing down on the bolt the spring feels strong. the hand and the teeth on the back of the cylinder have no gouging or burs, the fit of the barrel to frame with the wedge seated it tighter than Dick's hat band and the rifling is mirror shiny and sharp.

Heck...The only flaws I can find on the whole dang piece is a VERY faint line of bolt drag on the cylinder and the bolt notches in the cylinder have a very small gouge on both sides

I'll try to post some pictures when I get home this afternoon. Thanks for everyone's help thus far.
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Old April 29, 2012, 11:45 AM   #11
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Quote:
Heck...The only flaws I can find on the whole dang piece is a VERY faint line of bolt drag on the cylinder and the bolt notches in the cylinder have a very small gouge on both sides
There is your answer. The bolt is not fitting the bolt slots in the cylinder. Measure the bolt width and all the slots, and adjust thebolt width accordingly.
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Old April 29, 2012, 03:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Heck...The only flaws I can find on the whole dang piece is a VERY faint line of bolt drag on the cylinder and the bolt notches in the cylinder have a very small gouge on both sides

The drag line comes from the hammer being let down from half cock and like Zullo said the bolt isn't fitting the notch.
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Old April 29, 2012, 04:34 PM   #13
BerdanSS
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Zullo,

One problem with that.....

I does fit....if anything it's smaller. I checked it with a digital micrometer. I was hoping it was too big. That would of been a cost-less easy fix. I know the bolt drag ring comes from improper cocking/firing/screwing around. Which is my all the ones I've had since they were brand new don't have it

I'm wondering, since this was mainly a display piece....I'll bet the owner and everyone that came in his house got it down daily and "played" with the "neat old gun". Which would account for the bolt drag and maybe the cylinder gouges? I'd wager dropping the hammer halfway, bolt dragging and general screwing around with something you aren't experienced with, or knowledgeable about could cause damage.

Could a new cylinder help? I mean if the notches are wallered out....that could allow the cylinder to turn back.
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Old April 29, 2012, 06:07 PM   #14
emishi
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And another thing...

It sounds like someone dismantled, polished and fitted the internals of the revolver real well. The only thing I can think of... that would allow the cylinder to move slightly counter-clockwise... is the removal of material from the left side of the bolt... vs. the right side, while fitting the bolt to keep it from peening the notches. Just an opinion.
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Old April 29, 2012, 06:12 PM   #15
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Take the bolt out and manually check the fit. It might be the buggered part is too narrow for the bolt to fit into. Being a bit out of time will let the bolt slam into the edge of the notch, that will peen one side of the notch. The bolt should drop into the lead in not drop into the actual notch.
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Old April 29, 2012, 07:45 PM   #16
BerdanSS
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Hawg,

I'll check on that.....

I'm still trying to find the time to post pics

I thought maybe someone had taken the gun apart and polished parts and slicked up the action....but the guy I got it from claimed he bought it new and had the original receipt, box label and booklet. And he didn't really know much about the pistol itself in general or full details of how to use it... let alone be able to do any kind of smithing. That and all of the parts still retain their finish. no bright spots or any other evidence of polishing or grinding

Last edited by BerdanSS; April 29, 2012 at 09:35 PM.
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Old April 29, 2012, 09:31 PM   #17
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Sorry for the size and quality of the picture.....it's the best I can do right now. Oh and for kicks I just looked up the codes, it was manufactured in 2001

Oh and Hawg, FYI it is penned on both sides of the notch, the lead side pretty deep and the other just barely noticeable...If that helps...not sure if it does

Going to take the bolt out tomorrow after work and check it manually as you suggested.....but the digital calipers haven't lied to me yet so I expect it will fit. Could the bolt being too small cause the same problem?

Last edited by BerdanSS; April 29, 2012 at 09:41 PM.
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Old April 30, 2012, 04:19 AM   #18
Hawg Haggen
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It sounds like the bolt is coming up a smidge too late. Being too small wouldn't do that but it might not be going deep enough.
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Old April 30, 2012, 08:18 PM   #19
BerdanSS
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What it the fix for that? Thinking about calling traditions tomorrow and seeing what the charges would be to send it in. Probably could buy a new pistol cheaper....but we'll see.
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Old April 30, 2012, 08:34 PM   #20
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This is how I fixed it when I first started trying to tune mine.

(It's lots easier the second time.)


http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=475195
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Old May 2, 2012, 10:45 PM   #21
BerdanSS
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well Traditions is out....shipping both ways and $65 an hour plus parts I've got a guy at a local gun shop I buy a lot of 45 colt supply's from that untill yesterday didn't know did quite a bit of smithing; with apparently a passionate focus on single action guns

He's going to go over the whole pistol with me since it will be my fist time doing more than taking one all apart for cleaning or spring replacement. Hopefully I'll have it out at the range the following week end.
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Old May 8, 2012, 08:32 PM   #22
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I might be wrong but I learned some things from this thread's experts. If you cock a colt the slot on cylinder shoud be dead even w/ the slot on you recoil. Not loaded, cock the gun and drop the loading lever. It should fall right into the underneath chamber at 6 o'clock. Cock it again and see if it falls right. Actually it should go into 4 cocks before firing if you have it in perfect operating condition.

Is that right? Also, if cylinder is not rotating into position it could be a poor fitting of the hammer hand or wearing of its spring. Is that right?. Taylors and co has a good gunsmith if you don't know one.
WBH
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Old May 11, 2012, 08:45 AM   #23
Hawg Haggen
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Hardy, if you're saying a Colt C&B should have four hammer clicks that's not right. It should actually have three but the last two will be so close together they sound like one.
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Old September 27, 2012, 11:28 AM   #24
hightekkrednek
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purchased 2 used 36 cal pietta navy revolvers from an individual, identical down to everything except the serial numbers and the wood grain of the grips. got both of them for $200 bucks. i know it looks like they are over $200 each on cabelas as some have mentioned. also bought 2 NIB made in italy brass 36 cal molds for $30 bucks. havent shot them yet, but not far off.
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Old September 27, 2012, 04:34 PM   #25
Noz
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Most of the tuning and repairs on the Cap and Ball guns is very simple.
A simple word of advice. If you feel the need to grind on something, grind on the cheapest part. Easiest to replace.

I would taper the bolt first.

Here's a good tutorial.

http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/ind...c,25009.0.html
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