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Old April 12, 2012, 11:36 AM   #1
Tanker6
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Cylinder Pin Lube....

Ok, I didn't get much when I asked this before, but I did tack it onto my other thread about "nipple wrench success," so I decided to open another thread.

I shoot my 1858 Remmies in SASS/CAS events....well, I've done it twice so far, so I'm still learning.

I've used regular gun lube (Hoppe's) and Ballistol on my cylinder pins so far, but I'm unhappy with both. After only a few stages (cylinders), it starts to bind/gum up and I have to clean and relube.

I've heard others talk of using some sort of grease or thick lubricant on their cylinder pins which allows a shooter to put 6+ cylinders through without binding. I'd love to know what that lube is.

So, how 'bout it?

T6 a/k/a Chickahominy Charlie
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Old April 12, 2012, 11:59 AM   #2
pohill
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I use the vegetable spray PAM on the cylinder pins of my Remingtons and on my Paterson. Works great. Less filling.
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Old April 12, 2012, 12:08 PM   #3
Doc Hoy
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Or....

Douche it down with bore lube.

If you are permitted by the rules to wipe things down, that can be helpful.
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Old April 12, 2012, 12:40 PM   #4
51colt
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If you use filler or wads and put a finger full of Crisco in each chamber before loading the balls you will never have to worry about the cylinder binding again or anything on your revolver getting fouled out. Adding 15% bees wax to Crisco is a good mix but straight Crisco or bore butter works.
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Old April 12, 2012, 02:37 PM   #5
arcticap
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This thread suggests several greases that folks actually do use on their arbors:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthrea...hlight=lithium

Last edited by arcticap; April 12, 2012 at 02:46 PM.
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Old April 12, 2012, 02:59 PM   #6
wittzo
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I put a coat of synthetic gear lube on my arbor pins and cylinder pins and can shoot for several cylinders.
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Old April 12, 2012, 09:34 PM   #7
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Tanker,
I posted on another site about using a drop of oil on the cylinder face/frame juncture after charging the chambers and that has worked for me without having to pull the cylinder and regrease the pin every stage or two. I don't like to get all messy & blackened so I do not pull the cylinders. I think it is a waste of time and dirty. That's my opinion so if someone doesn't mind doing that then more power to them but not for me. My Uberti Remingtons bind up and thus the oil drop at each charging. My Euroarms Remingtons (a pair of 44s and a pair of 36s) do not bind during an entire 6 stage match. Go figure. I think each gun and each manufacturer has different dimensions hence the common "YMMV". I put a lube wad under each ball and grease over each ball every time. It helps. Also shooting 20 grains powder vs 30 grains helps (30gr is much more fun when people ask if I can get any more powder in there). I put rotgut automotive bearing grease on the cylinder pin and back of the cylinder on all my C&Bs.
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Old April 12, 2012, 11:48 PM   #8
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A Windex spritz between stages ought to keep you going.
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Old April 13, 2012, 12:15 PM   #9
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+1 for PAM
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Old April 13, 2012, 12:17 PM   #10
Doc Hoy
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I use the same stuff I use for bore lube....

...as I said previously, but only so I don't have to take a different can, or tube along to the range.
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Old April 13, 2012, 12:44 PM   #11
Andy Griffith
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Hmmm...

This thread got me to thinking.

The same lube fit for Colt clones may not be suitable for Remington clones.
I shoot far more Colt style revolvers with large arbors that have the serrations on them- and for those, Crisco works just fine. Maybe thin lubes, like Pam are better suited to the tighter tolerances of the Remington.
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Old April 13, 2012, 01:29 PM   #12
pohill
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I use Crisco or Bore Butter on my Colts - they do not like PAM. PAM also does not work as a patch lube in a rifle. But in my Paterson and Remingtons, it works great on the arbor. I've also tried it as an over-the-ball spray and it works as well as Crisco or Bore Butter (both of which are practically gone after the first shot).
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Old April 17, 2012, 08:14 AM   #13
Fairshake
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Cylinder base pins

I'm a 100% black powder shooter and shoot at least 3 matches in SASS each month. I started with 45 Colt and now for the last few years use 44WCF guns.
My first shooting with BP was in 1970 when I worked in a gun store. I purchased a 44 Army and 36 Navy revolvers. I then started shooting the 50 cal Hawken.
I had a man tell me many years ago to use Mobil One Synthetic grease. It comes in 1 lb cans or tubes for the grease gun. I've used the same tube for over three years so it last.
If you have a removable bushing like some Colts then put the grease on it also. I lube the bushing and then the base pin itself. After doing so just wipe away all excess that will come out as these pieces are tight fits.
I have shot as many as 8 stages with no problems and my cylinders spinning the same as when I started.
It is a synthetic and has no effect with the BP as a regular lube would be a big no-no. Try it and you will become a true believer. Fairshake
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Old April 17, 2012, 10:38 AM   #14
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If all else fail's swap out to a Rogers & Spencer....problem solved.
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Old April 20, 2012, 12:03 PM   #15
Tanker6
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Thanks for all the varied responses. I'm going to start trying some of them until I get one that works the way I'd like it to.

'ppreciate it!

T6 a/k/a Chickahominy Charlie
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Old April 20, 2012, 03:09 PM   #16
Hawg
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Quote:
If you use filler or wads and put a finger full of Crisco in each chamber before loading the balls you will never have to worry about the cylinder binding again or anything on your revolver getting fouled out.
That's not been my experience. All you do is make a mess,
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Old April 20, 2012, 03:50 PM   #17
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Well I use dried goat droppings between powder and ball. Stops chain fires, and I can shoot the crap out of it all day.
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