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Old February 27, 2012, 10:48 PM   #26
zullo74
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ROFLMAO
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Old February 28, 2012, 12:17 PM   #27
Wild Bill Bucks
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"this is not necessarily a problem if the surface becomes thoroughly dry and is then coated with a good rust preventative; the coating process will remove the flash rust while laying down the protective barrier. "

Basically what is described above is a short way of saying "Seasoned"

Iron is a basic element known as "Fe" on the element chart.
Steel is Iron that has had a certain percentage of Carbon added to it, which forms an Iron/Iron carbide alloy.

Stainless steel is steel which has had other metals alloyed such as chromium, vanadium, and others, to create different hardness, and characteristics.

So your mother's Iron skillet is a lot closer to your rifle barrel than you might think.
I own 7 different type's of Ml's from several companies, and I have done all of them the same way as I described. Whether my way is right or wrong is of no importance to anyone but me, but I can tell you I have had NO problems with rust or brown dust in any of my rifles or pistols (or mama's skillets) in the last 50 years.
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Old February 28, 2012, 06:38 PM   #28
mykeal
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I'm glad all your guns are rust free and certain that you take good care of them. Your process of thoroughly cleaning and then oiling the metal is an excellent one, as evidenced by the results you have achieved. However, you are not 'seasoning' the metal in the sense that your, and my relatives seasoned their cast iron cookware, nor is that 'seasoning' the reason for your success.

I'm well aware of the composition of metals used in modern firearms, including the replica black powder firearms currently being manufactured. I'm also well aware of the composition of cast iron. Yes, both contain elemental iron, but beyond that there is absolutely no resemblance. You might just as well say that water and alcohol are closely related because both contain elemental hydrogen.
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Old February 28, 2012, 06:53 PM   #29
longranger
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After using a cleaning method of your choice, wax the barrel with Johnsons paste wax.Apply to clean patch work well full length of the barrel.I quit using oil on my guns 20 years ago.Oil migrates and protects for a limited amount of time,don't care how much you spent on the oil it will migrate removing the protection it once afforded.Museums wax their guns inside and out,I have done this to all of my guns B/P and smokeless for years never a spot of anything,finger prints just wipe away leaving no acids to rust the metal.
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Old February 29, 2012, 07:33 PM   #30
Mr.Guido
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Quote:
Steel is Iron that has had a certain percentage of Carbon added to it, which forms an Iron/Iron carbide alloy.
Just to clarify for those who may not be familiar with the steel making process, cast iron has a much higher carbon content than "high carbon" steel.

The reason that carbon is added to the iron in steel is that it is much easier to separate the undesirable elements from iron by removing all of the non-iron impurities as opposed to trying to selectively remove some. The carbon is then reintroduced in much lower levels than those present in cast iron.
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Old December 6, 2013, 03:55 PM   #31
madtrapper
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209 primer: some brands too hot for TC barrels?

Yeah, I have rust inside my barrel. It's a TC Impact, my first and possibly only muzzleloader until a fully stainless steel one is made.

I stopped using TC and Tradition cleaning products. I noticed massive rust development after I used their natural lube products. I now use a black powder solvent, brass brushes, and then use normal gun oil on a patch when done. The gun oil seems to make a bit better difference when I am storing the gun.

Recently, I was posed with the idea that the 209 primer I am using may be too hot for this barrel. I have been using Federal 209A which is among the hottest firing of the primers I have access to. I'm thinking I may use some weaker primers like CCI but the reality is that the damage is done so if this works then all I'm doing is preventing the damage from increasing.

Thoughts on this hypothesis???
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Old December 6, 2013, 04:44 PM   #32
mehavey
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Go at the slightly rusted barrel with some JB bore paste (per instructions), then clean completely
using both oil-based solvent and final soap/hot water.

Thoroughly oil the bore down w/ a couple of patches of BreakFree CLP (or WeaponShield) then oil it down again the next morning.
You're done -- and should not have a problem again as long as final step is BreakFree or its equivalent.

Forget "bore butter." (!!!)
All it's comprised of is bees wax, olive oil, yellow food color and a pinch of Wintergreen for smell.

Last edited by mehavey; December 6, 2013 at 04:53 PM.
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Old December 6, 2013, 05:03 PM   #33
fdf
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Forget Bore Butter, seasoning barrels, and primers causing problems and brushes need to go. The best barrel cleaner is water.

I have been shooting M/L since 1974 and do not have rust in my barrels.

Use tap water at room temperature. hot water causes "FLASH" rust.

Flush the barrel with tepid water and dish water soap until clean. After cleaning, swab the barrel with patches until dry, check patches on your lips for moisture. Plug the nipple with finger or something and pour alcohol down the barrel and swish back and forth with your finger plugging the end of the barrel to remove any remaining water. Swab the barrel with patches until dry, check patches patches on your lips for moisture, continue until dry.

Swab the barrel with 3 in 1 oil or Barricade.

You will not have rust.

Barrels need oil or RIG to protect them, they are not skillets.
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Old December 7, 2013, 02:59 PM   #34
Curtis Simmons
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I have been shooting BP for over 30 years, made my share of mistakes, learned a lot form my elders, and have researched on the web. I use nothing but T/C #13 and Bore Butter. These are all natural products, no petroleum ingredients. To me using all natural makes sense. I don't think there were many in the 18th and 19th centuries who had access to petroleum lubes so they used what they had, usually something they rendered from animal fat.It served them well so why not me? In my opinion you can "season" a barrel as all metal is porous. I think of seasoning a barrel for a ML is the same as breaking in a center fire barrel, it's a on going process with ever shot you take. The brown dust you see when swabbing the bore is the residue left after the bore butter has dried as it is water based. I wish I had a dollar for ever friend who has called me saying the had ruined their rifle with bore butter. Talk to a competition BP shooter and ask them why they are allowed a fouling shot before competing. Their bores are seasoned to the point that if they don't take a fouling shot, the first on target will be a flyer. Just my opinion based on my experiences.
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