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Old November 8, 2011, 12:12 PM   #26
bman940
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scope

You might want to have your gun shop mount the scope and ask them to lap the rings. Increases surface area of scope and ring contact. No reason to buy all of it if you will not be mounting a lot of different scopes. With scope moving you will defintely need to shoot it again before hunting with it.
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Old November 8, 2011, 12:15 PM   #27
jd3020
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I have a local shop that can do it (i hope) and im getting ready to purchase another nikon for my 270 so i just might as well have them do both at the same time
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Old November 8, 2011, 12:28 PM   #28
Poodleshooter
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I've dealt with the Ruger rings on my old M77MkII. My rings slipped scopes all the time, so I had to use witness marks constantly to make sure it wasn't moving. I ended up using a thin strip of extremely fine grit sandpaper (I think it was 1000grit) in the ring surface to get the rings to stick to the scope, which worked pretty well.
I've also heard of folks using temporary/weak loctite as well as strips of rough finished masking tape inside of rings to hold the scopes. It's basically a WECSOG version of the Burris Signature Zee ring insert system, but it works.
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Old November 8, 2011, 12:30 PM   #29
jd3020
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I never thought of locktite. I have some hear at work that is called a "bearing retainer" and its just supposed to keep them from spinning. essentially doing the same thing with the scope
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Old November 8, 2011, 03:03 PM   #30
tahunua001
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if the high grit paper and loctight dont work you may have had something shake loose. as much as I love nikon, every company can turn out a bad one every once in a while. I had a cheap little barska 4x scope on a 22 and I yoosta-could hit empty 22 casings at 50 yards with it but now I can barely squeeze ak47 groups out of that 22.
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