The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Skunkworks > Handloading, Reloading, and Bullet Casting

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old February 4, 2001, 12:34 PM   #1
Peter M. Eick
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 3, 1999
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 2,877
Another question for the Pro 2000 users. I have a new unit and I am experiementing with the sequence of reloading.

Do you:
1) prime, bullet, rotate, brass
2) bullet, primer, brass, rotate
3) prime, rotate, bullet, brass

Also, I noticed that universal Clays seems to "leak" out of the Pro 2000 Uniflow more then my older one? Any reason for that, or it just needs to wear in?

Finally any suggestions before I form some bad habits?
__________________
10mm and 357sig, the best things to come along since the 38 super!
Peter M. Eick is offline  
Old February 5, 2001, 07:09 PM   #2
linngl
Member
 
Join Date: December 1, 1999
Location: Sherman,Tx,USA
Posts: 40
This assumes I have just indexed the shell plate and dropped a perfect round into the hopper.

1. Prime case in station 2.
2. Insert empty case in station 1.
3. Pick-up bullet and hold in place on primed/charged case in station 5.
4. Cycle press handle.
5. Index
6. repeat as neccessary.

This method seems to be the most natural to me. I can use very little bell on pistol cases and control the bullet placement.
linngl is offline  
Old February 6, 2001, 07:36 AM   #3
Peter M. Eick
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 3, 1999
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 2,877
What I noticed is that the detent is pretty strong, so if you index prior to putting the bullet in, it seems to spill a bit of powder each time.

I am now experimenting with using both hands to index (the right hand has nothing better to do right now anyway) so I can control the index a bit better.

I am now running the following sequence (assuming you have just resized).

Prime (carefully, I have crushed a few primers sideways in my "enthusiasm")
2 handed index
new case
bullet
repeat

This seems to be pretty good so far.

Has anyone else had any problems with spillage of powder out of the drop tube funnel (not out of the case or out of the uniflow rotating cylinder)? I switched to universal clays over unique for my 380 auto and noticed that the joint between the end of the uniflow and the pistol funnel seems to leak a bit of powder on every pull, is this normal?
__________________
10mm and 357sig, the best things to come along since the 38 super!
Peter M. Eick is offline  
Old February 6, 2001, 10:34 AM   #4
linngl
Member
 
Join Date: December 1, 1999
Location: Sherman,Tx,USA
Posts: 40
I use my left hand for all operations, except for operating the press handle. I let my thumb on my left hand absorb the impact as the shell plate snaps at the index. The problem with powder getting slung out when the index ball snaps in the shell plate only occurs with short straight wall cases. In my case it was .40 S&W. I haven't had any problem with powder spilling out at the powder funnel. Did you install the proper size for .380? The instruction manual also said to thoroughly clean all internals of the powder measure and attachments, as they had been coated with a preservative at the factory. I used acetone and a q-tip to clean everything. Just be careful as the vernier adjustment has an o-ring that can be damaged, and don't get solvent on the plastic hopper. I don't have any powder residue on the press after a 500 round session. The powders I have used are Titegroup, Winchester Super Field, H-380, H-110 and AA-9. These are all flake or some ball variant and feed very well.
I just noticed something about your post. Your saying the powder is leaking at the junction of the uni-flow threads and the drop tube. Remove the spring and unscrew the takedown screw. You should now be able to lift the powder measure off of the press attachment. The main part of the drop tube screws into internal threads in the uni-flow body. Make sure that it is tight. I think it was all loose from the factory as you were supposed to clean it first.

One thing I forgot to mention before is that the sideways primer is caused by allowing the press handle to pass thru the neutral position and into the priming stroke. This causes the primer in the strip to be raised out of the strip. The primer is then free to bounce around. It takes a little practice, but stopping in the correct place will become second nature. As long as the primer stays in the strip until the priming stroke, you won't have any more sideways primers.

[Edited by linngl on 02-06-2001 at 11:16 PM]
linngl is offline  
Old February 7, 2001, 07:37 AM   #5
Peter M. Eick
Senior Member
 
Join Date: August 3, 1999
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 2,877
Thanks

I had cleaned everything pretty well, but I learned last night not well enought.

I took apart the measure assembly and found that I was pretty gentle in tightening up the drop tube into the uniflow. It was loose, so that may be part of my problem.

I also noticed a bit of "crud" had built up in the pistol funnel tube. This may also be my problem.

I will clean them again and see how it goes.

On the primer flipping sideways, I appreciate your advice. I will have to experiment and see if I can get the feel of it.

pete
__________________
10mm and 357sig, the best things to come along since the 38 super!
Peter M. Eick is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2014 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent: thefiringline.com
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.05522 seconds with 9 queries