Milsurp stock refinishing - Page 2

Edward Horton · June 16, 2011, 01:30 PM

And don't ask what I painted my 2A1 with or which can I used.

Gravity never lies and a twisted fore stock above on a 7.62 2A1 .

LarryNTX · June 16, 2011, 01:45 PM

I was just having a little fun with the Krylon comment.

My personal preference for milsurp stocks is a mixture of 1 part Tru-Oil and 4 parts BLO. A couple of coats on a well cleaned stock gets the finish close to what I want, then I can adjust the mixture with more or less Tru-Oil to get more or less gloss for the final coat.

Edward Horton · June 16, 2011, 03:31 PM

LarryNTX

When I first came into the forums I got a lot of bad info and took people at their word. My first Enfield was refinished with Behr Tung Oil and it turned out to not have any tung oil in it and was nothing more than a linseed oil base wiping varnish. (with modified pine sap in it)

As you can see below the words:

"Most finishes today contain petroleum distillates, solvents or heavy metal drier additives" and these toxic chemicals should NOT be applied bare handed. British, Canadian and Australia have stricter health laws that forbid these additives from being added. So remember "WHO" and from "WHAT" country information is given here in these forums.

"Tried & True™ Traditional Finishes

Most finishes today contain petroleum distillates, solvents or heavy metal drier additives. These don't. Developed largely from polymerized linseed oil with other natural-product additives, the finishes strictly adhere to the standards established by the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) and qualify as non-toxic and safe for food-contact surfaces in both their uncured and cured (wet and dry) states.

Made using traditional 18th-century production techniques, all are high-yield finishes, providing coverage of at least 75 square feet per 16 fl oz/473ml. We offer three easy-to-use formulas: Original Wood Finish, Danish Oil and Varnish Oil.

Original Wood Finish
Dubbed a "true general-purpose finish", the Original Wood Finish formula is a highly refined polymerized linseed oil with pure beeswax as an additive. Adapted from a Shaker recipe, the finish produces a warm antique sheen that is luminous without appearing glossy.

Ideal for all interior woodwork, including doors, windows, trim, cabinets and furniture, a thin coat of finish is applied, allowed to penetrate for 60 minutes, wiped, buffed dry and allowed to cure 24 hours between applications. Three coats are recommended for furniture application; two coats are sufficient for most other surfaces. Periodically buff surfaces to maintain sheen.

Danish Oil
The Danish Oil is pure polymerized linseed oil with no additives. An ideal choice for kitchenware and furniture, it penetrates deeply into wood surfaces and builds to a durable, water-resistant satin sheen.

The oil is applied sparingly to the surface, allowed to penetrate for 5 minutes and then wiped clean and buffed dry. Subsequent coats can be applied in as little as 24 hours though allowing 2 to 3 days between coats will speed curing of the finish. Good protection is achieved with 2 to 3 coats. Buff surfaces occasionally to maintain sheen.

Varnish Oil
The Varnish Oil is a combination of highly refined polymerized linseed oil and natural-resin varnish (modified pine sap). Its high resin content produces a durable water-resistant finish that buffs to a warm semi-gloss sheen.

Application is straightforward—brush or wipe on in moderation, leave to penetrate for 60 minutes, then wipe and buff dry. Additional coats can be applied after as little as 24 hours with two to three coats recommended for best protection. Maintain sheen with an occasional buff with a soft, clean cloth.

Simple, environmentally-friendly finishing solutions available in 16 fl oz/473ml and 32 fl oz/946ml containers."

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,190,42942

In the past I have used BLO mixed 25/75 BLO and Turp and a wall paper wetting tray to "soak" the stock to get much deeper penetration. It can and has saved me from having to do bedding work on fore stocks with wood shrinkage. (and wore rubber gloves)

CapnJ · September 30, 2011, 06:39 PM

My apologies for the necropost, but I wanted to share two things about this thread:

One, I have bookmarked this thread in my favorites. The information is excellent, hard to find, and very very useful. Great thanks to Edward Horton for his contributions.

Two, the comments about 'toxic BLO' scared me silly! I've been hand-rubbing BLO into my rifles for some time, and the idea that I was inadvertently exposing myself and friends to toxic heavy metals was disturbing to say the least! I took Mr. Horton's advice and checked the MSDS for the brand of BLO that I used, "Crown". It is available here:
http://whatsinproducts.com/msds/9100...PHPSESSID=5259

To my relief, it contains only 100% boiled linseed oil. No toxins. I must have lucked out and got one of the 5% of American BLO's that do not use toxic heavy metals. Even better, it is only $8.00 a quart, produces a very agreeable finish, and is commonly available at Lowe's. I am posting this so that people who use BLO with less-than-confidence-inspiring MSDS contents will know of a safer alternative.

wogpotter · September 30, 2011, 07:28 PM

As you've discovered actual information is far more comforting than rambling ignorant gibberish.

mkk41 · September 30, 2011, 07:56 PM

For a deep rich finish on GOOD wood , my favorite was G96 Lin-Speed oil. I'd thin it out with turpentine so it soaked in deeped and dried quicked. Haven't seen it in years though. BC Tru-Oil is darn near as good and available everywhere.

For a more durable utilitarian finish on not so select military wood stocks , Tung Oil is what I use.

Chris_B · October 1, 2011, 11:05 PM

Lin-speed is still out there. I've used it a few times. My Dad had a jar of it that lasted 40 years- a couple drops would do an entire stock. he bought a new jar year before last

http://www.lin-speed.com/

CapnJ · October 4, 2011, 09:56 PM

I've used BLO on a few stocks, and Tru-Oil on some others. I like the look of both, but for old military rifles I really like it best when it looks like what it was "supposed" to look like. 9 out of 10 times, that would mean BLO. This time, however, it doesn't.

I recently came into a 1916 BSA No1 MkIII that was FTR'd into beech wood, which is a little unusual for a No1. The finish, as you can see, is not the usual BLO glow, and I have every reason to believe that this is how it was imported after undergoing a FTR at BSA. I needed to know the proper finish for this rifle, and now I know what that finish was. Had I applied BLO or something else, I would have been sorely disappointed with the results.

Again, thanks to all who shared information in this thread, with particular thanks to Edward Horton for supplying the documents that helped me make an informed decision.

September 30, 2011, 07:28 PM	#30
wogpotter Senior Member Join Date: September 27, 2004 Posts: 2,058	As you've discovered actual information is far more comforting than rambling ignorant gibberish. __________________ Allan Quartermain: “Automatic rifles. Who in God's name has automatic rifles”? Elderly Hunter: “That's dashed unsporting. Probably Belgium.”

June 16, 2011, 01:30 PM	#26
Edward Horton Junior member Join Date: October 13, 2009 Posts: 70	And don't ask what I painted my 2A1 with or which can I used. Gravity never lies and a twisted fore stock above on a 7.62 2A1 .

June 16, 2011, 01:45 PM	#27
LarryNTX Senior Member Join Date: December 19, 2010 Location: a little north of Dallas Posts: 114	I was just having a little fun with the Krylon comment. My personal preference for milsurp stocks is a mixture of 1 part Tru-Oil and 4 parts BLO. A couple of coats on a well cleaned stock gets the finish close to what I want, then I can adjust the mixture with more or less Tru-Oil to get more or less gloss for the final coat.

June 16, 2011, 03:31 PM	#28
Edward Horton Junior member Join Date: October 13, 2009 Posts: 70	LarryNTX When I first came into the forums I got a lot of bad info and took people at their word. My first Enfield was refinished with Behr Tung Oil and it turned out to not have any tung oil in it and was nothing more than a linseed oil base wiping varnish. (with modified pine sap in it) As you can see below the words: "Most finishes today contain petroleum distillates, solvents or heavy metal drier additives" and these toxic chemicals should NOT be applied bare handed. British, Canadian and Australia have stricter health laws that forbid these additives from being added. So remember "WHO" and from "WHAT" country information is given here in these forums. "Tried & True™ Traditional Finishes Most finishes today contain petroleum distillates, solvents or heavy metal drier additives. These don't. Developed largely from polymerized linseed oil with other natural-product additives, the finishes strictly adhere to the standards established by the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) and qualify as non-toxic and safe for food-contact surfaces in both their uncured and cured (wet and dry) states. Made using traditional 18th-century production techniques, all are high-yield finishes, providing coverage of at least 75 square feet per 16 fl oz/473ml. We offer three easy-to-use formulas: Original Wood Finish, Danish Oil and Varnish Oil. Original Wood Finish Dubbed a "true general-purpose finish", the Original Wood Finish formula is a highly refined polymerized linseed oil with pure beeswax as an additive. Adapted from a Shaker recipe, the finish produces a warm antique sheen that is luminous without appearing glossy. Ideal for all interior woodwork, including doors, windows, trim, cabinets and furniture, a thin coat of finish is applied, allowed to penetrate for 60 minutes, wiped, buffed dry and allowed to cure 24 hours between applications. Three coats are recommended for furniture application; two coats are sufficient for most other surfaces. Periodically buff surfaces to maintain sheen. Danish Oil The Danish Oil is pure polymerized linseed oil with no additives. An ideal choice for kitchenware and furniture, it penetrates deeply into wood surfaces and builds to a durable, water-resistant satin sheen. The oil is applied sparingly to the surface, allowed to penetrate for 5 minutes and then wiped clean and buffed dry. Subsequent coats can be applied in as little as 24 hours though allowing 2 to 3 days between coats will speed curing of the finish. Good protection is achieved with 2 to 3 coats. Buff surfaces occasionally to maintain sheen. Varnish Oil The Varnish Oil is a combination of highly refined polymerized linseed oil and natural-resin varnish (modified pine sap). Its high resin content produces a durable water-resistant finish that buffs to a warm semi-gloss sheen. Application is straightforward—brush or wipe on in moderation, leave to penetrate for 60 minutes, then wipe and buff dry. Additional coats can be applied after as little as 24 hours with two to three coats recommended for best protection. Maintain sheen with an occasional buff with a soft, clean cloth. Simple, environmentally-friendly finishing solutions available in 16 fl oz/473ml and 32 fl oz/946ml containers." http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,190,42942 In the past I have used BLO mixed 25/75 BLO and Turp and a wall paper wetting tray to "soak" the stock to get much deeper penetration. It can and has saved me from having to do bedding work on fore stocks with wood shrinkage. (and wore rubber gloves)

September 30, 2011, 06:39 PM	#29
CapnJ Junior Member Join Date: September 30, 2011 Posts: 2	My apologies for the necropost, but I wanted to share two things about this thread: One, I have bookmarked this thread in my favorites. The information is excellent, hard to find, and very very useful. Great thanks to Edward Horton for his contributions. Two, the comments about 'toxic BLO' scared me silly! I've been hand-rubbing BLO into my rifles for some time, and the idea that I was inadvertently exposing myself and friends to toxic heavy metals was disturbing to say the least! I took Mr. Horton's advice and checked the MSDS for the brand of BLO that I used, "Crown". It is available here: http://whatsinproducts.com/msds/9100...PHPSESSID=5259 To my relief, it contains only 100% boiled linseed oil. No toxins. I must have lucked out and got one of the 5% of American BLO's that do not use toxic heavy metals. Even better, it is only $8.00 a quart, produces a very agreeable finish, and is commonly available at Lowe's. I am posting this so that people who use BLO with less-than-confidence-inspiring MSDS contents will know of a safer alternative.

September 30, 2011, 07:56 PM	#31
mkk41 Senior Member Join Date: December 4, 2004 Posts: 283	For a deep rich finish on GOOD wood , my favorite was G96 Lin-Speed oil. I'd thin it out with turpentine so it soaked in deeped and dried quicked. Haven't seen it in years though. BC Tru-Oil is darn near as good and available everywhere. For a more durable utilitarian finish on not so select military wood stocks , Tung Oil is what I use.

October 1, 2011, 11:05 PM	#32
Chris_B Senior Member Join Date: February 9, 2007 Posts: 2,589	Lin-speed is still out there. I've used it a few times. My Dad had a jar of it that lasted 40 years- a couple drops would do an entire stock. he bought a new jar year before last http://www.lin-speed.com/

October 4, 2011, 09:56 PM	#33
CapnJ Junior Member Join Date: September 30, 2011 Posts: 2	I've used BLO on a few stocks, and Tru-Oil on some others. I like the look of both, but for old military rifles I really like it best when it looks like what it was "supposed" to look like. 9 out of 10 times, that would mean BLO. This time, however, it doesn't. I recently came into a 1916 BSA No1 MkIII that was FTR'd into beech wood, which is a little unusual for a No1. The finish, as you can see, is not the usual BLO glow, and I have every reason to believe that this is how it was imported after undergoing a FTR at BSA. I needed to know the proper finish for this rifle, and now I know what that finish was. Had I applied BLO or something else, I would have been sorely disappointed with the results. Again, thanks to all who shared information in this thread, with particular thanks to Edward Horton for supplying the documents that helped me make an informed decision.