The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The North Corral > Black Powder and Cowboy Action Shooting

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old March 21, 2011, 08:57 AM   #26
Hardcase
Senior Member
 
Join Date: April 14, 2009
Location: Sunny Southern Idaho
Posts: 1,909
Shotput79

Welcome aboard!
__________________
Well we don't rent pigs and I figure it's better to say it right out front because a man that does like to rent pigs is... he's hard to stop - Gus McCrae
Hardcase is offline  
Old March 22, 2011, 08:36 AM   #27
enyaw
Senior Member
 
Join Date: November 28, 2008
Posts: 130
When chamber are chamfered to not shave lead it isn't as easy as it sounds. There has to be two chamfers cut to not shave lead or one "way too wide and deep" of a chamfer.
When there's one chamfer then there is an edge deeper in that shaves lead so then that lower edge then needs chamfered. Makes more of a funnel to the opening. Makes for having to seat the balls a little deeper and loose powder capacity.
The plungers concave edge is there to push lead against the chamber walls anyway so shaving a ring isn't a bad thing.
Most of the chambers are a little tapered anyway in the Italian guns.
The best thing to do is ream the chambers to ,at least. be the same diameter as the barrels groove diameter. Makes for more consistant accuracy.
enyaw is offline  
Old March 22, 2011, 09:25 AM   #28
Noz
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 25, 2009
Posts: 643
Chamber chamfering is not a necessity but a convenience. It makes the pistol easier to load since the ball is already "down in the chamber" a bit.

As with most black powder guns, it ain't rocket science and does not need to be treated as such.

A couple of turns of a LEE case chamfering tool in each chamber will break the sharp edge of the chamber mouth and allow a nice easy loading.

Is it exact? NO!

Does it need to be exact? No!

Does it work? Yes!

All of my competition guns are thusly treated.

Let me lay something else on you.

When I first started SASS competition with C & B pistol I shot Remingtons. Because the Italian guns have short triggers ie do not fill the trigger guard from top to bottom, I frequently pinched my trigger finger between the toe of the trigger and the trigger guard. I occasionally came up with some impressive blood blisters. I switched to the 1860 Armys and had the same results.

What if the trigger were just a tiny bit longer?

I bought a spare trigger, put the curved portion into my vise and squeezed, listening for the dreaded ping of the metal breaking followed by the clink of it hitting the floor. To my surprise, the only thing hard about the triggers is above the screw hole. Below the screw hole is soft steel that bends easily. Squeezing the bend makes the bend shallower and in effect makes the trigger longer.
Bend them until the toe just clears the trigger guard. If the toe hits the trigger guard, then put a little curve back into the trigger. This also tends to move the trigger back in the trigger guard which is again a good thing.

No more pinched fingers.

Again, ain't rocket surgery!

Last edited by Noz; March 22, 2011 at 09:50 AM.
Noz is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:36 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2014 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent: thefiringline.com
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.06111 seconds with 9 queries