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Old November 22, 2010, 03:05 PM   #1
k31
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where would i find a new k31 barrel

in short my barrel is shooting fliers and i cant seem to find any one who can re crown it but plenty of shops rebarrel so i guess i simply want an accurate rifle and a new barrel sounds like it should do the trick and a .308 is lots easier to get a hold of
i would like to find a bull barrel for my k31 in a 7.5x55 maybe in a .308 (i think they should be very similar) and hopefully not to pricey maybe about 200 at the most
i cant find a standard k31 barrel and am not sure what i would need to do to convert it into a .308 i have heard of it being done but am not sure what all is involved
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Old November 22, 2010, 05:43 PM   #2
publius
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Well, you're going to need someone to chamber and install this barrel so you need to find a gunsmith/builder suited to the job. When you find him you have also found you're crowning guy so you can try that first. If you do have a bad barrel he will know where to get a new one in your price range.
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Old November 24, 2010, 01:46 AM   #3
Clark
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It seems a few years ago there were lots of K31s for $80 and they all had perfect bores, but some weird action that was hard to fit with a scope.
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Old November 24, 2010, 07:30 AM   #4
RaySendero
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k31 wrote:

in short my barrel is shooting fliers and i cant seem to find any one who can re crown it but plenty of shops rebarrel[quote]


K,

Keep looking for the right GS!

Any GS worth his salt can cut-off and recrown a barrel!! I beleive Brownell's even sells recrown kits for do it yourself jobs.

I'm suprised, you are getting this answer from them - Almost sounds like they are giving you the run-arround for some reason. Ask some more questions and let us know what's said.
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Old November 24, 2010, 09:02 AM   #5
Jim Watson
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$200 for a new barrel is not realistic.
Larry Racine works on K31s
http://www.lprgunsmith.com/K31_rifles.htm
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Old November 24, 2010, 09:19 AM   #6
kadima
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A new barrell for a K31 in Switzerland is some hundreds CHF.....

K.
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Old December 1, 2010, 05:54 PM   #7
k31
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still lots of run around
nobody will touch the k31
i think it would be cheaper to re crown or ream it out to a .308 but nobody will do it i keep getting referred to other gun smiths i didnt know it was such an under taking to shorten up the barrel a smidge
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Old December 1, 2010, 06:28 PM   #8
Jim Watson
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You can't "ream it out to .308" because 7.5 Swiss is larger in case body diameter. Hard to ream a hole smaller.

I don't know why nobody will crown your barrel, it is not a complicated job and is not specific to the make of gun. Probably wouldn't do much good anyhow, a barrel with enough wear to the crown to affect accuracy is usually shot out anyhow. We get a lot of Internet Recommendations to crown barrels, but seldom any feedback that it helped a lot.
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Old December 1, 2010, 11:53 PM   #9
k31
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k so i did some looking around on youtube (great site)
you can recrown a rifle with a simple woodscrew and abrasive paste and a drill
im not sure im gona try it just yet but i can start with the nagants and save the swiss for when i got it figured out

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OorpZlG28fI
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Old December 2, 2010, 10:24 AM   #10
F. Guffey
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It is done all the time, the barrel is counter bored, if the barrel muzzle is shot out and fails someones standard for tapper, re-crowning will not correct the problem, many rifles shipped into the STATES have been checked for barrel erosion and counter bored, some as much as 1.5 inches, I have a few, if the rifle was not accurate, replacing the barrel is not a problem and most of them I purchased for the action.

I would not suggest chucking up a drill bit in a hand held drill, I suggest something like a core hole drill with a means of centering with a pilot that is friendly to the rifling.

Counter bore is done when in all appearance the rifle maintains the look of a military rifle that is not altered. the barrel is cut off and crowned when the owner gives up that need to maintain the original configuration.

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Old December 10, 2010, 02:12 AM   #11
HiBC
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Before you cut steel,by what process did you connect the fliers to the crown?
I will not say a crown cannot cause a flier,but generally,might a flier be connected to an inconsistant variable?The crown is pretty much the same for each shot.To be very blunt,no disrespect intended,a crown job will not cure a little flinch,or a little jerk,or the instability of a makeshift rest,or parallax from variable cheekweld,or ammo that is 56 years old,or maybe a light firing pin strike,variable sling tension......

Last edited by HiBC; December 10, 2010 at 02:17 AM.
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Old December 10, 2010, 02:47 AM   #12
k31
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from what i am learning it was junk ammo from prvi and possibly my make shift rest
the trigger is very light maybe about 3 lbs and i dont use any type of pad it is lock in tight to my shoulder the right side of the tip of my nose just at the edge of the hump where it slopes to form the cheek rest its my kisser button
i try my hardest for good shooting form and im know i have lots to improve on but i try to be consistent
i am trying some more graf and sons ammo soon as the wife lets up or the snow what ever comes first
i have also learned that i could be that i have a screw tighter than it should be and that i could use a spacer between the upper and lower stock to make sure that the barrel is floating and not touching if i grip the fore end to tight
also no sling never did like them
i noticed when i hunted with a sling to often i would shoulder it when i got tired
i miss a lot of rabbit like that
i do thank you thoughi still have lots to learn and i am on my own until i log in here
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Old December 10, 2010, 06:56 AM   #13
m.p.driver
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Need parts try Tennessee guns,they had barrels up until about a year ago but currently have other small parts.Bought a barrel from them for $29 for the threads ,fellow i know will re barrel in .308 but evidently the threads are a difficult pitch so he cuts the barrel and reams and threads the inside of the receiver stub to accept a match barrel.A member of our club shoots one in the 300 yard matches and its sweet.
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Old December 10, 2010, 02:40 PM   #14
HiBC
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Before you drop a bunch of money gunsmithing your rifle,consider spending the money on a basic,lo=buck reloading package.Lee might be your friend here.You need a scale,a couple of manuals,some dies and a press.A powder measure is a good thing.The $200 you propose for a barrel will fix you up.
You will be able to learn what ammo your rifle likes,and you can make match grade ammo.
This will accomplish at least 3 things.
You will eliminate poor ammo as a variable
You will have more ammo to shoot,so you will shoot more
While it is possible,if you alter your rifle,you might improve it,from the start,as the crufflers will emphaically tell you,it is no longer a pristine K-31.The first thing someone who appreciates the K-31 is going to notice,is someone "bubba'd" a nice rifle.(I do not know the K-31.I do have an idea who the Swiss are)
It seems possible you may act before determining the root cause of a problem.The rifle gets compromised,it does not improve,it may get worse,and you lose the money you spent.
Do a search on all the posts of kraigwy.Read them.Read what he suggests you read.Another decent book is "PositionRifle Shooting"

Once you develop as good a load as you can for your rifle,go ahead and shoot your best bench group with the rifle,and sight it in.Save the targets.

Then get off the bench and shoot position.As long as your position shooting groups significantly larger than your bench groups,the best way to make your rifle shoot better is to be able to shoot as well as your rifle does.
It may be that the other path leaves you frustrated,broke,with a butched up basket case gun .Or you could be shooting.
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Old December 10, 2010, 04:16 PM   #15
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A number of the military surplus Mausers I've seen have barrels that were cleaned more often than they were shot, and they can, indeed, have muzzle funneling from cleaning rod rubbing without the throats being shot out. Usually this funneling is biased to one side. You can see it with a flashlight (or even without) The lands just aren't equally tall all around the crown. In a bad case (saw this on a bunch of Columbian m.98's 20 years ago) there may be no rifling at all at the muzzle.

Recrowning with a lathe or with a special crowning tool, like Dave Manson's, is not rocket science. I am astonished you've found nobody to do it or to counterbore to recess the crown. They are common services. You do want to find a gunsmith shop with machine tools, though, and not just a repair bench in the back room, as many gun dealers have. If nothing else, Gander Mountain usually equips its gunsmiths with a lathe. If the fellow they've hired knows his trade, they should be able to do it.

Mr. Guffey has given you good advice on the hand drill and bolt lap for two reasons: One is that rotating a lap in one directions tends to score the surface. It may not matter to function in this case, but it looks poor. You want lapping to be done with a back and forth motion the way engine valves are done. Then you'll get a smooth surface for bluing.

The more important reason, though, is that all the "round head" bolts I've ever held against a radius gauge have turned out to be elliptical in profile. That means, if they aren't fed in on a perfectly straight line with the bore, they will cut the crown at an angle rather than symmetrically. That will never let you reach the barrel's accuracy potential.

If you want a hand lapping method that works, I have one presented in the attached PDF file. It uses a perfectly spherical lap (a ball bearing) and randomizes the pressure angle of the person doing the lapping by rotating the gun barrel repeatedly during the work. You do, however, still need a means of cutting the barrel off square before you start. That's trivial on a lathe because you don't even need to indicate the work to center make a square right angle cut. There are also piloted 90° cutters from Brownells. You can also shorten the barrel with a saw and make the muzzle surface perpendicular to the bore using a file and a square, the way M.L. McPherson is known to do, but this takes skill. You likely won't get it right the first time you try. Once you have the muzzle square and the tools assembled, the process only takes 10 to 15 minutes using graded abrasives.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf crown_ball_lapping-1.pdf (50.6 KB, 81 views)
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Old December 10, 2010, 05:05 PM   #16
k31
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i dont plan to change anything yet except my range habbits first buy myself a proper rest then proper targets and save them and document my shoot then when im back at the range i might be able to see improvement by actualy looking for it and as far as buba the only thing i plan to change for now is the stock and i am custom building it not hacking up the original
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