Thumb Break Holster Problem w/ my 1911

[Danny45]

Hey guys, who else has this problem? I just cut off the thumb break on my holster because it was difficult to unsnap in a hurry due to the beavertail grip safety on my Kimber. The Kimber is my first 1911 style pistol and I'd never had problems with thumb break designs until now. My pistol is carried concealed and speed is of the essence in my opinion. So, my new holster is an open top now!

[Gopher .45]

I think you may have ruined your holster. The thumb break is the holster's retaining device. With time, the snap will become a little friendlier and the leather will stretch some. So, eventually, your holster would have been fine, most likely. Instead of cutting off the thumb break, you could have just left it unsnapped. Now you have an expensive belt slide holster it sounds like.

[M1911]

I've never had that problem. But that's because I don't use thumbreak holsters for my M1911 (or for any of my other guns, for that matter).

M1911

[Ledbetter]

I got a Bianchi thumbbreak holster for my 1911 when I first got the gun (before I knew how I wanted to carry it). Never could figure out how to make the thumbreak strap work in condition one. The holster was pretty clearly designed to carry the gun hammer down, and the gun was pretty clearly designed to be carried hammer back, safety on. There you go. If I try, I can fit the strap between the hammer and the firing pin, but it doesn't release cleanly.

Now, I prefer beltslides (holster goes between belt and pants).

[Danny45]

Maybe I need to clarify. I never had a problem getting the strap to snap. Retention was not a problem either. My problem was when I practiced drawing the firearm, the beavertail safety got in the way and slowed down the process of unsnapping the holster and drawing it. I kept hitting my thumb on the safety instead of hitting the thrumbreak. (just so you know I'm no nut, I do not practice my "quick draw", and I especially don't practice drawing the weapon with it loaded unless it's at the range and in a safe manner) But I do believe that is of strategic importance. If you can't get it out, you can't use it.

thanks

[manny1]

I'm with gopher on this one, as you just might have trashed a good quality leather TB holster (unless it was a Safariland plasticrap one). I've used leather TB holsters for over 15 years (both on & off duty) & never had a problem with a 45 beavertail hanging up. What brand were you using before you chopped it?

[Danny45]

Manny, It's not that great a holster. That's why I did it. It's a "Shooting Systems" paddle holster. Part nylon and part "leather looking stuff". The only thing hanging up was my thumb on the beavertail and not hitting the thumb break as quickly as I feel is necessary in an "Oh $hit" scenerio.

[Scott Evans]

Danny45,
The holster or rig you chose is, IMO, as important as the firearm. I’m not a fan of thumb break retainers for CCW carry either; however, I would be concerned about the functional integrity of the rig after such a modification. If the quality of the holster was not “too good” to begin with then I would suggest you start over and buy a better quality rig that is set up the way you like it from the start. Speed on the draw is a valid concern with any CCW rig but it is not the only essential element. Retention is of at least equal importance. I would suspect the ability of a lower quality holster, designed to retain via a thumb strap, to properly hang onto your firearm with out the strap.

[Bill Daniel]

Danny45:
Jerry Haugen at Haugen Handgun Leather makes a fine thumb break holster and will modify it at your request. I have two one for my Gold Match and one for my Custom Compact. No problems drawing either one.
http://webhost.btigate.com/~gunlethr/index.html
All the best,
Bill Daniel