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Old January 31, 2009, 05:28 PM   #26
Doc Hoy
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Join Date: October 24, 2008
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 4,585
Yep, For what its worth I agree

MCB,

I agree with you about the trigger, not so much because I am smart about it, but because in the case of my revolver the trigger is not all that tight. By that I mean that it does not do that great of a job holding the bolt steady.

When next I take the pistol apart, I am going to see if there is space for a washer or spacer or maybe a light spring on that screw (the bolt screw) which would serve to hold the bolt more steady.

I may experiment with this as a method of tightening the bolt.

The more I read Pettifogger's article and the posts you guys are making, the more work I want to do on this pistol.

As regards Pettifogger, I will soon be looking for the article on Ubertis that he referenced in the Pietta article. He talks about a poorly fitted arbor and as you may have read in my [revious post, this pistol suffers from that problem.

Tnx,

Barry

Tnx,

Doc
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Old February 7, 2009, 09:36 AM   #27
Doc Hoy
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Join Date: October 24, 2008
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Posts: 4,585
Update

For those of you who have so little to do that you are still monitoring this post, I thought I would provide an update.

As you recall, I was initally attempting to correct a problem with the bolt slipping off of the hammer cam which locked up the cylinder at half cock. In investigating that problem, I noted that the cylinder was a little sloppy (radial movement at full cock.) This was not severe but I thought it was noticable so I brought it up in the posts.

At your collective suggestion I cured the initial problem by widening the gap at the end of the bolt legs. Thanks predominantly to Mykeal for sticking with me on this issue.

To get the cylinder to lock up better I looked into fooling with the spring. (ala Madcratebuilder) When I did this, I found that the spring was shot. It fell apart in my fingers. I bought a new spring from DGW, made the obligatory length adjustment on the trigger leg of the spring and put the pistol back together. That improved cylinder lockup a bit.

I still have a bit of slop in the cylinder but I think it is well within safety and performance standards. I measured the relationship between the width of the bolt and the width of the slot in the cylinder as recommended in the Pettifogger article and found those measurements to be okay.

I also raised the issue of using a post manufacture apparatus to more confidently hold the bolt in one place, with the idea that this would reduce cylinder motion.

When I raised this issue I did it knowing that the experts among you were thinking, "He's barking up the wrong tree." I know that the best remedy here is to maintan the pistol in good condition but I would add that even new pistols (by my best recollection) have a bit of slop.

As I know nothing of the ballistic data apart from what I read, I have no idea what impact this motion has on performance. I bought myself a chronograph so that I can really get some good bullet speed data. I bought this chronograph used and have not tried it yet. All I know is that it is complete, turns on and appears to be in good condition.

I do appreciate your tolerance and continued forebearance.

I still have no answer on the question of who actually manufactured this pistol.
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