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Old October 30, 2008, 10:47 PM   #1
DaFuzz
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Join Date: October 30, 2008
Location: Chetek, WI
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Ruger Mark III Take-down

I recently got a Mark III Target model, and took it apart for the first time tonight. Things were going pretty well, but the receiver/barrel won't come off the frame? I've got the mainspring out, bolt removed, no mag in, and it seems like it's all one solid piece. What am I doing wrong? Help?
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Old October 31, 2008, 08:11 AM   #2
GE-Minigun
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Copied from elsewhere

Disassembly
Unload it. Duh.

insert empty mag

place safety in F position

pull trigger to make sure hammer has fallen (Hammer must be
uncocked to procede)

remove magazine

release mainspring housing and pull bolt stop pin out (may need punch and hammer to push pin out from top)

bolt should pull out. Otherwise, fully insert EMPTY magazine and pull trigger to remove bolt.

remove magazine

At this point, the barrel/receiver can be seperated from the frame. A forward blow from a plastic mallet on the back of the receiver (where the bolt was) should release the barrel/receiver.

Reassembly
unload it. Duh.

safety must be in F position

keep finger off trigger and place hammer in horizontal (cocked)
postion. (Hammer is retangular object inside the grip frame near the rear)
If you hammer cannot be placed in horizontal position, hammer strut may be trapped behind the crosspin (refer to Fig. 7 in manual, not applicable to 22/45). If so, lift hammer to free strut then move hammer back to horizontal. If hammer has rotated too far forward and is difficult to move backwards, insert mag and this will allow the hammer to rotate backwards into horizontal position. Once hammer is horizontal, remove magazine.

Check that loaded chamber indicator is in place

Place barrel receiver on top of frame such that the square lug engages the square recess on the underside of the receiver. (see fig 8A in manual). Push barrel rearward until it stops (rear end of the receiver slightly overhangs the rear end of the grip frame, see Fig 8B). Check to see if bolt stop pin can be inserted smoothly. If not, placed the gun muzzle down on a padded bench and strike the rear of the frame, right below the receiver, with a plastic or wooden mallet. Small taps should do it, be gentle. Remove stop pin if necessary.

Insert empty magazine

Point muzzle up and pull trigger.

Gravity should cause the hammer to return to cocked position if dislodged when mounting receiver. If not, reach in and push the hammer down (horizontal).

Remove magazine

Slide bolt into the receiver with recoil spring upwards.

Insert magazine.

Point muzzle down towards the ground.

Hold mainspring housing and insert bolt stop pin into it's
position. A thin coating of oil on the stop pin helps as does a light tap from a plastic mallet. Don't close mainspring housing yet.

Invert pistol so muzzle points up.

Make sure hammer strut is pointing more or less down. Strut should go into oval shaped cut inside the mainspring housing.

Depress trigger with thumb. (see Fig 12. in manual).

(for non 22/45 models) Move mainspring housing into closed position.

(for 22/45 models) While holding pistol muzzle up and depressing the trigger with your thumb, close mainspring housing as far as possible without excessive pressure.

(for 22/45 models While holding mainspring housing closed, release trigger and remove magazine. Once magazine is removed, the housing will close the rest of the way.

Close mainspring housing latch.

Insert magazine, open bolt, use bolt release to close bolt and dry fire to test.

When I took mine apart the first time the manual states to strike the rear of the upper receiver to get the 2 apart, I had to hammer it pretty good to get them apart.
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Old November 1, 2008, 07:44 PM   #3
radkoch
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GE Thanks for the response to this post as I had the same question
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Old November 1, 2008, 09:26 PM   #4
jdmaxima89
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Not trying to threadjack, but I think I have a major problem. I got my new MKIII 22/45 yesterday, and I was planning to shoot it tomororow. I took it to my friend who is a cop, because he was going to help me clean it. (I'm new to guns). We were following the directions in the manual, and trying to get the mainspring housing out. We couldn't get it out, and didn't have a dowel handy to tap on the bolt with. We closed it up and tried it again a couple more times. Never got it. Now, I don't know what we did, but I hope it can be fixed. Before, the mainspring housing WAS swinging out all the way, now it won't. It only comes out about 2 centimeters. Won't swing out. Also, we can cock it, but pulling the trigger does nothing. AND the safety can be switched on and off all the time, it wasn't able to do that, per the manual. What have we done? Did we break it that easily? He was messing with it when it got to the point that it wouldn't move, so I'm not really sure what he could have done wrong. We've tried magazine in, magazine out, safety on, safety off, I checked the internal safety and it's fine. It seems like something on the inside broke or something, and now it's stuck. I want to use this thing!!!
Please help!
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Old November 1, 2008, 09:51 PM   #5
jdmaxima89
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It's actually the same problem this guy was having.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yvxf1H6YYII
But I CAN get the magazine in... but it does hang up where he says his won't go in.

So then I found this.
http://www.guntalk-online.com/TroubleshootingPage.htm
When he says manually release hammer... I can't really tell what I'm looking at. Do I have to take the grips off to do that? If so... how!

Thanks!
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Old March 11, 2014, 09:24 PM   #6
medic13
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Join Date: November 10, 2006
Posts: 4
I started the step got the back pin or what ever you call it to remove barrel wont come out . so tried to reassemble and barrel moves 1/2 inch and wont cycle ,any ideas how to fix this even to get back together please .
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Old March 11, 2014, 11:55 PM   #7
Scorch
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GE-Minigun gave an excellent breakdown on how to disassemble/reassemble a Mk III. If you are still having problems, take it top your local gunsmith.

I have about 5 or 6 people a month come in all sad faced and embarrassed with their Mk III in a box or case in pieces. In just a few minutes, I get them on their way again. They are not all that difficult to work with, you just have to do a few things right.
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Old March 12, 2014, 04:57 AM   #8
PetahW
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Join Date: September 19, 2008
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.

This website (1bad69.com) has picture tutorials that will work for all Ruger Standard Auto Pistol "mark's" (I, II & III) & 22/45's:

http://www.1bad69.com/ruger/index.htm


.

Last edited by PetahW; March 14, 2014 at 10:59 AM.
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Old March 12, 2014, 02:57 PM   #9
bitttorrrent
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Location: Chicago
Posts: 670
Use a plastic headed hammer to get the barrel and frame apart.

Especially on new ones, I had to run out to Home Depot to get a hammer and then banged on it. And of course it flew across the room! Didn't hurt or scratch though.
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Old March 13, 2014, 08:03 PM   #10
rrp
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Location: west central Wi
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ruger mark lll

I think they are all alike. I even had mine sent back to Ruger. They sent it back and told me it was fine. I can take my old Mark l apart and reassemble blindfolded with no problems, but this Mark lll sucks. When a company expects a guy to take a hammer to a brand new gun, there is a problem. I had a brand new Nikon red dot scope on my Mark lll and hammering on the gun certainly isn't going to do any favors for a scope. I really think Ruger stepped on themselves on this model. I own several Ruger firearms but will not be buying anymore. Oh I nearly forgot in the heat of the matter. The part that holds the bolt back after the last shot, wore out in about three range sessions. Real quality materials!
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