new brass necking 22 Hornets to 17 caliber...

Magnum Wheel Man · October 28, 2008, 01:51 PM

I'm starting to accumulate the materials for loading my 17 Kilborn Hornet ( I have an old factory 10" Contender barrel, chambered in 17 K Hornet )

my buddy has reciently built a Contender carbine barrel in 17 Ackley Hornet...

I bought my barrel a long time ago, just to add to my collection of Contenders, however, we found that the fire forming loads for his "A" Hornet, chambered in my "K" Hornet, & by using fire formed brass, I was able to pull the chamber dimensions off those cases, & now have a set of Kilborn Hornet loading dies on thier way...

in fire forming the once fired, resized Hornet cases, we both found we got a lot of splits in the pressed in canilure groove in the brass from seating the previous 22 caliber bullets...

I have ( a lot ) of once fired Remington brass in 22 Hornet ( I also have several 22 Hornets to shoot them in ), so I was thinking about buying new unfired Winchester brass to neck down to 17 caliber

anyone shoot 17 Hornet ???

your brass preference & why ???

any of those guys shoot in a short barreled gun like my 10" Contender ???

got any pet loads you'd care to share ???

**Unclenick** · October 28, 2008, 08:41 PM

I'm not quite sure if this was a question or not, but annealing the necks and shoulders of the cases before forming the .17 necks should reduce the splitting.

Magnum Wheel Man · October 28, 2008, 10:35 PM

We annealed the once fired cases, before sizing & fire forming... the only real problem was from the crimp ring on that fragile 22 Hornet brass...

jaguarxk120 · October 29, 2008, 07:55 AM

The crimp ring on factory loaded brass become's the starting point for stress cracks. Looking at some range pickups (jewellers loup) you can see the impressions left by the factory crimping die. It looks like a 3-4 section collet presses the brass into the cannelure. At each point where the collet sections come together the brass has a very small outward flow creating a stress point in that section of the case. And work hardening the brass.

The new factory brass does not have that crimping ring since it's new, never loaded or ben fired. The new stuff should be fine.

With very small cases sometimes small things can make a big difference.

Good luck with your project. Tom F.

FrankenMauser · October 29, 2008, 11:09 PM

Winchester brass is cheap.

Winchester brass is cheap.

One of those statements refers to price. The other refers to quality control. If you do buy bulk Winchester brass, be sure to square the case mouths prior to any forming steps. Every piece of Winchester brass I have seen in the last 3+ years has had a crooked case mouth. In some cases, it has been over .028" difference between one side, and the other. (In some chamberings that means your 'long' side is over max case length, and the 'short' side is under trim-to length.)

Crooked case mouths can cause some serious frustration and/or problems if not fixed prior to working with the brass, or trying to load it.

... Just a heads up.

Remington brass is usually a bit more beat up, and may have some dented shoulders, case mouths, and necks. However, for only $2 more per hundred, it's usually the better buy for case forming. (My opinion.)

October 28, 2008, 01:51 PM	#1
Magnum Wheel Man Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2006 Location: Southern Minnesota Posts: 9,333	new brass necking 22 Hornets to 17 caliber... I'm starting to accumulate the materials for loading my 17 Kilborn Hornet ( I have an old factory 10" Contender barrel, chambered in 17 K Hornet ) my buddy has reciently built a Contender carbine barrel in 17 Ackley Hornet... I bought my barrel a long time ago, just to add to my collection of Contenders, however, we found that the fire forming loads for his "A" Hornet, chambered in my "K" Hornet, & by using fire formed brass, I was able to pull the chamber dimensions off those cases, & now have a set of Kilborn Hornet loading dies on thier way... in fire forming the once fired, resized Hornet cases, we both found we got a lot of splits in the pressed in canilure groove in the brass from seating the previous 22 caliber bullets... I have ( a lot ) of once fired Remington brass in 22 Hornet ( I also have several 22 Hornets to shoot them in ), so I was thinking about buying new unfired Winchester brass to neck down to 17 caliber anyone shoot 17 Hornet ??? your brass preference & why ??? any of those guys shoot in a short barreled gun like my 10" Contender ??? got any pet loads you'd care to share ???

October 28, 2008, 08:41 PM	#2
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,130	I'm not quite sure if this was a question or not, but annealing the necks and shoulders of the cases before forming the .17 necks should reduce the splitting. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

October 28, 2008, 10:35 PM	#3
Magnum Wheel Man Senior Member Join Date: July 26, 2006 Location: Southern Minnesota Posts: 9,333	We annealed the once fired cases, before sizing & fire forming... the only real problem was from the crimp ring on that fragile 22 Hornet brass...

October 29, 2008, 07:55 AM	#4
jaguarxk120 Senior Member Join Date: February 28, 2008 Location: Michigan Posts: 2,620	The crimp ring on factory loaded brass become's the starting point for stress cracks. Looking at some range pickups (jewellers loup) you can see the impressions left by the factory crimping die. It looks like a 3-4 section collet presses the brass into the cannelure. At each point where the collet sections come together the brass has a very small outward flow creating a stress point in that section of the case. And work hardening the brass. The new factory brass does not have that crimping ring since it's new, never loaded or ben fired. The new stuff should be fine. With very small cases sometimes small things can make a big difference. Good luck with your project. Tom F.

October 29, 2008, 11:09 PM	#5
FrankenMauser Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2008 Location: In the valley above the plain Posts: 13,473	Winchester brass is cheap. Winchester brass is cheap. One of those statements refers to price. The other refers to quality control. If you do buy bulk Winchester brass, be sure to square the case mouths prior to any forming steps. Every piece of Winchester brass I have seen in the last 3+ years has had a crooked case mouth. In some cases, it has been over .028" difference between one side, and the other. (In some chamberings that means your 'long' side is over max case length, and the 'short' side is under trim-to length.) Crooked case mouths can cause some serious frustration and/or problems if not fixed prior to working with the brass, or trying to load it. ... Just a heads up. Remington brass is usually a bit more beat up, and may have some dented shoulders, case mouths, and necks. However, for only $2 more per hundred, it's usually the better buy for case forming. (My opinion.)