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Old June 30, 2008, 09:48 PM   #1
aardvarkrh
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1858 cylinder reinstallation

Just got into BP percussion. Picked up a couple Uberti 1858 repros. Am having one heckuva time replacing cylinders after removal in both. I don't think I'm completely mechanically declined. With some considerable time and consternation, I can get them back in. Just doesn't seem to be quite right. Any info would be appreciated.

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Old June 30, 2008, 09:53 PM   #2
Hawg Haggen
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Easiest way I've found is with the cylinder out let the hammer down. Then as you start the cylinder in ease the hammer back just a tad til it falls into place.
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Old June 30, 2008, 10:14 PM   #3
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Agree

I to have the same problem and what hawgden said is the best way that i have found to do it still trying to get that smooth as butter move down like Clint Eastwood in palerider
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Old June 30, 2008, 11:52 PM   #4
Fingers McGee
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What's happening is the hand is sticking out and interfering with the cylinder when you try to put it in. I've found that leaving the hammer at half cock and rolling the cylinder in the same direction as it turns when you cock the pistol, it pushes the hand out of the way and slides right into place. It takes a little practice; but once you get it, it becomes second nature. Watch Eastwood in Pale Rider, that's what he does.
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Old July 1, 2008, 01:20 AM   #5
Hawg Haggen
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I've done it that way but it's easier the way I described in my first post. Once you hit the sweet spot with the hammer the cylinder will literally fall in and doesn't take nearly the practice to get it down pat.
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Old July 1, 2008, 08:48 AM   #6
sundance44s
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The way I`ve always do it is ...as I push the cylinder into place I am turning it at the same time clockwise ..this allows the hand to mate with the ratches on the back of the cylinder ...as the hand wears like on my older pistols , it gets much easyer , the spring on the hand being new is causeing the problem ..I always say Remingtons only get better with age .
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Old July 1, 2008, 09:22 AM   #7
Hawg Haggen
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With the hammer down the hand is already retracted. The cylinder WILL install with the bolt up. All you have to do is move the hammer just enough for the cylinder to clear it. Do that and it will fall into place. In fact if you don't stop it it will fall out the left side. Try it. It's a lot easier.
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Old July 1, 2008, 09:42 AM   #8
sundance44s
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Hawg the only problem with the way you are doing it is ..the bolt will scratch the cylinder ...if you`ve tuned your Remington to not make the scratches around the cylinder ..installing it with the bolt up ..will do it .
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Old July 1, 2008, 09:51 AM   #9
Hawg Haggen
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With the hammer down the cylinder notch can still be lined up with the bolt. Ease the hammer back til it clears and it will just roll right on in and the bolt will be locked in the notch. This ain't rocket science.
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Old July 1, 2008, 10:25 AM   #10
Smokin_Gun
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Speakin' as a Rem Man

I know both ways of cylinder switchin' work...use both methods, but if you are new at it and even if you ain't the tried and true "safest" and easiest method is with the hammer at half cock roll the cylinder out and new one in. As replacing an empty an empty cylinder with a capped loaded one could be risky with your thumb on the hammer and it pulled back some.


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Old July 1, 2008, 10:35 AM   #11
Raider2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smokin_Gun
As replacing an empty an empty cylinder with a capped loaded one could be risky with your thumb on the hammer and it pulled back some.
One of the reasons "but not the only one" I still only load & cap each cylinder with 5 shots & not 6 this way I can switch cylinders the way HH stated & when I insert the pin the hammer is on the empty chamber.
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Old July 1, 2008, 03:01 PM   #12
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Both ways work good, Hawgs way works good too, just set the bolt head in the cylinder notch when you slide the cylinder in.
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Old July 1, 2008, 04:46 PM   #13
Hawg Haggen
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Quote:
replacing an empty an empty cylinder with a capped loaded one could be risky with your thumb on the hammer and it pulled back some.
You don't pull the hammer back far enough to pop a cap. Just enough to let the cylinder clear the hammer which with mine happens just as the hammer contacts the mainspring. There is just a smidge of spring tension on the hammer(I presume from the hand spring)but with mine you have to have the hammer at about two thirds of half cock before it will pop a cap. However YMMV.
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Old July 1, 2008, 10:42 PM   #14
Oquirrh
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Newbie here...

The hammer back system works for me, once I got the knack. Thanks.
clint uses the half-cock method.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=P382tsARVdM

This guy uses the hammer back system:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VM-oOndLvA&NR=1

It would take three hands to do it with a Colt.
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Old July 1, 2008, 11:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
It would take three hands to do it with a Colt.
Now that's funnyHeeHeeHee!

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Old July 7, 2008, 01:36 PM   #16
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I started out Hawg's way, but lining up the cylinder notch and the bolt meant that I had to LOOK at the gun when I swapped cylinders. It's just much cooler to swap cylinders without looking, which I can do by rolling the cylinders in and out. I figured I'm just like Clint Eastwood in every other way (except ancient), so I may as well do this like him too! Hawg... in no way am I saying that you aren't cool !!
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Old July 7, 2008, 01:58 PM   #17
Hawg Haggen
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Oh, I know I'm cool.....At least in my own mind. I got my 58 used and the cylinder was already scored so I don't need to line the bolt up. Most times I just drop it in and it's already lined up anyway.
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Old July 7, 2008, 02:36 PM   #18
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No doubt shooting black powder revolvers can make you a legend in you own mind ...and in your finest hour even your own favorite hero ....never got that feeling with smokeless powder...
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Old July 7, 2008, 02:46 PM   #19
Hawg Haggen
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Smokeless has no soul.
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Old July 7, 2008, 02:54 PM   #20
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Amen !
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