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Old March 23, 2008, 10:12 PM   #1
steve-o 1911
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Removing A Crimped Primer

Im gonna begin loading .223 and the primers are crimped. this is probably a stupid question but I just got a dillon 550 press and I dont want to screw it up, but when I resize and deprime the case, the decapper in the die wont get screwed up right, from the primer being crimped? or is there a different method to getting rid of the crimped primer first?
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Old March 23, 2008, 10:39 PM   #2
freakshow10mm
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You will have to remove the crimp before you seat a new primer.

After you decap the spent primer you need to either ream or swage the primer pocket to get rid of the crimp.

Dillon Super Swage will run you a little less than $100.

Hornady makes a small primer pocket reaming tool for a few dollars. Couple twists and you are all set.

My advice is to buy a Lee universal decapping die, 2-3 extra decapping pins ($2-3 each) and put that in station one to decap them. Just decap all of them, use the Hornady pocket reamer to remove the crimp, then reinstall your FL sizer die in station one and load as normal.

ETA: I leave the universal decapping die in my Rockchucker single stage press. Then I can leave my .223 dies in the toolhead with no monkeying around.

How many cases do you have?
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Old March 23, 2008, 10:50 PM   #3
steve-o 1911
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about 100 rds but i also have regular cases, more of that. so why use a universal decapper and not the one on my dillon?
Also whats the difference between the reaming tool that is a few buck over the swager which about 100, dont they do the same thing?
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Old March 23, 2008, 11:30 PM   #4
rwilson452
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If you use the dillon sizing on your press before you finish the job you will break the decapping pin. you can take that to the bank.

a ream removes ( cuts ) the crimp the swager pushes the brass away. it is a more complex tool built somewhat like a press. the reamer is just the tool. some you can chuck up in a drill. or use by hand.

Quote:
about 100 rds but i also have regular cases, more of that. so why use a universal decapper and not the one on my dillon?
Also whats the difference between the reaming tool that is a few buck over the swager which about 100, dont they do the same thing?
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Old March 24, 2008, 12:38 AM   #5
steve-o 1911
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so when would you use a swager? you dont have to do both to the case?
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Old March 24, 2008, 02:38 AM   #6
rwilson452
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I don't use a swagger I use a reamer. You don't need to use both. One or the other.

The reamer I use I got from RCBS years ago. it came with a handle. I chuck it up in my cordless drill. it is a bit slower than a swagger but cost much less. You only need to do this once per case. Mostly I don't get cases that are not already processed to remove the crimp. The reamer can also be used to clean primer pockets. I have a wire brush for that too. it uses the same handle but again I use it in a drill.



Quote:
so when would you use a swager? you dont have to do both to the case?
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Old March 24, 2008, 08:18 AM   #7
jmorris
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The case on the left has been swaged the one on the right has only been deprimed. Don’t worry about using your Dillon die to deprime and size, I’ve deprimed many 1000’s and you won’t break the decapping pin by just a crimp. The 1050 has a built in swager that works perfect the rest add another step to the reloading process, but it's not cheap. The Dillon 600 is probably the best swager as most of the others try and hold the case by the rim during the process. If you are cutting the crimp out, a cheap bench top drill press (to chuck the bit into) will speed up the process.

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Old March 24, 2008, 08:22 AM   #8
jaguarxk120
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Why not call Dillon and ask tech support? Seems they have run into this problem before and will have answers for you. TF
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Old March 24, 2008, 05:19 PM   #9
AlaskaMike
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Why would the Dillon decapping pin break just from decapping military cases? I don't have a Dillon and I've never seen one of their decapping/sizing dies--I'm just curious. I've decapped many hundreds of military cases with crimped in primers with my RCBS dies and have never broke a decapping pin yet.

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Old March 24, 2008, 06:16 PM   #10
Tim R
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De-capping pins are cheap but there should be no problem de-capping if the flash holes are where they are supposed to be.

You can ream the crimp out after the case is de-capped. I find I like the feel of a swaged primer pocket over a cut one. For only a hundred cases I would find something which would allow you to seat a new primer without it getting snagged up.

I think you will find the GI brass is very good and will be looking for more. All I use is GI brass for my match AR's. If I were rich I would use Winchester brass.

Some people have a single stage press just for things just like this. The reason for a ce-capping die is some people don't like having to remove the case from the press to swage, ream or what ever before before loading.
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Old March 24, 2008, 11:31 PM   #11
GASCHECK
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RCBS make a swaging kit that can be used in any sturdy non-progressive press like the Rockchucker. Has what looks like a die that contains a support rod, and two sizes swaging punches that go in the ram. Has a cup with a hole that fits over the punch. When you return the ram to the bottom position, it pops off the swaged case. Had mine for years, de-crimped MANY
'06 cases. Works great, doesn't cost $100!
Gaschceck
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Old March 25, 2008, 12:49 PM   #12
farnorthdan
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Lyman tool

I picked up the Lyman rechargeable swage/primer pocket tool from sportsman's for $50. It works great and comes with reamer, primer pocket cleaning bits (large and small) brushes and some other doodads. I highly recommend the Lyman tool.

As far as not depriming the foreign military brass I just through that crap in my recycle bucket. The primer hole IS NOT boxer its berden(spelling?) which means it has two small holes side by side instead of one right in the middle of the primer pocket and thats what breaks your depriming pin. I learned that the hard way.......
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