steel targets...making my own

happymachinist · June 13, 2013, 09:52 AM

So I've got some scrap tool steel chunks laying around. Targets made from AR500 are kinda pricey, the thought crossed my mind to make my own out of the tool steel I have on hand and heat treat them. Plus I'm always looking for a good project.

Has anyone made there own hardened steel targets? These will be shot at with small fast rounds .204, 22-250 and .223 at 200+ yards.

The sites I've looked at online say that AR500 is 470-520-ish brinell. That translates to about 50HRC-ish. So I thought I would start there as far as hardness. (I don't have access to a brinell scale.) I'm wanting longevity but I don't want it to crack in half from being too brittle either, I normally use paper targets. As far as thickness I was thinking 1/2".

Any input in regards to smaller higher velocity rounds against steel targets would be greatly appriciated, be they purchased or homemade.

Thanks

Mods feel free to move this thread if it is not in the right place.

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Roughedge · June 14, 2013, 06:41 PM

I wanted to set up a range at the house so I maned up and bought $500.00 worth. They've held up well but they say shoot with rifle at 100 yds or more. I shoot AR's at 50 yards with no damage. A few weeks ago I shoot a 7mag at 80 yds and punched a hole in one like it was drilled and it was a core lock bullet. I think with 308 or smaller you should be fine.

Mausermolt · June 15, 2013, 10:01 PM

i just used "regular" 1/2'' steel until i started punching holes in it then i welded on another 1/2 "

as soon as i punch holes in this batch ill just fill in holes with the welder.

allaroundhunter · June 16, 2013, 12:52 AM

Your .22-250 is even a nightmare for AR500 steel. It is recommended not to shoot it at less than 250 yards. If you are trying to use scrap steel and hope that it will stand up to that, well, it probably won't...

With AR500 steel you want the impact velocity to be sub-3000 fps, but I am keeping my impact velocities under 2750 to help a little more with longevity.

happymachinist · June 16, 2013, 02:24 PM

Thanks for the input guys.

I may be asking for more than any steel target can take I suppose.

I didn't know what the magic number for maximum bullet velocity was or what I should try to stay below, obviously the slower the better but at least I have an idea now.

This is what I've come up with. I need to add some stakes to the rear I think but it should be a good place to start.

The target is A2 tool steel 1/2" thick. It came out a little harder than I wanted to I need to re-temper it at a higher temp. I fear it would be to brittle as it sits.

I'll post up some pics when I get a chance to do a little shooting, see how the A2 holds up. Might not be as good as AR500 but the price was right.

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tobnpr · June 16, 2013, 07:24 PM

The danger in any steel plate is that if cratered, it's impossible to predict the frag direction if a bullet strikes a crater.

I bought 4" and 12" AR500 plates from a guy at the Hide that makes them, thousands of rounds on them and not a single crater. But they're never shot inside 200 and mostly at 600.

Best way to hang them is from the back side- running bolts through the holes and attaching them from the back. This angles the plate slightly downwards to direct the frags down into the dirt. I used to use chains, but found that wire is less likely to get hit because of it's thinner profile- and much easier to quickly replace when the firing line goes cold. I keep a bunch of them pre-cut in the range bag and can replace one in seconds.

happymachinist · June 16, 2013, 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobnpr

The danger in any steel plate is that if cratered, it's impossible to predict the frag direction if a bullet strikes a crater.

I bought 4" and 12" AR500 plates from a guy at the Hide that makes them, thousands of rounds on them and not a single crater. But they're never shot inside 200 and mostly at 600.

Best way to hang them is from the back side- running bolts through the holes and attaching them from the back. This angles the plate slightly downwards to direct the frags down into the dirt. I used to use chains, but found that wire is less likely to get hit because of it's thinner profile- and much easier to quickly replace when the firing line goes cold. I keep a bunch of them pre-cut in the range bag and can replace one in seconds.

What type/gauge of wire do you use?

I have just been going off pictures I've seen online with the chain and all. I assumed people were using chain because of strength reasons. I would much rather use wire and have a handful pre-made like you describe. Wire crossed my mind but I didn't think it would be strong enough.

Cheap and simple. Wish I would have known this before I bought the chain

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ShootingTargets7.com · July 29, 2013, 10:14 PM

I mount mine like this, it helps a lot with the faster rounds and gives the bullet an easy path to the ground.

It's the heat that actually damages the targets.

Quote:

The danger in any steel plate is that if cratered, it's impossible to predict the frag direction if a bullet strikes a crater.

Exactly.....

mwmjones · August 14, 2013, 06:47 PM

how does a .308 or 30.06 do on these plates?

PawPaw · August 14, 2013, 07:31 PM

I cut down an old swingset frame for hanging steel targets and it works quite well.

We've got a variety of targets we've collected over the years, both heavy (thick) mild steel, and commercial AR 500 targets that we shoot with several hunting rifles, from 7mm Mag, to .30-06, .308, and .25-06. Surprisingly, the .25-06 (117 Gameking at 2900 fps) puts a bigger divot in the target than the 7mm Magnum (140 grain Ballistic Tip at 3100 fps).

Here's the AR500 target shot with the same rifles.

Mild steel, when shot with hunting bullets, produces divots in the target and those might be the cause of a ricochet. When you shoot an AR500 target with a hunting bullet, the bullet comes apart. It's interesting to have a bunch of grandkids shooting steel, then call the range cold and go down to look at the ground around the target. There's all sorts of bullet powder down there, little slivers of lead and jacket.

One thing I've learned; don't hang your targets with chain. A common hunting bullet will cut a chain like a hot knife cuts butter. I hang my targets with old scraps of towing strap, or if you can find it, old pieces of fire-hose. While a bullet will cut a chain, it will zip through a piece of strap. And just as sure as you're in the middle of a good shoot, someone is going to throw one a little bit high and cut the chain.

June 13, 2013, 09:52 AM	#1
happymachinist Member Join Date: December 11, 2012 Location: Central Nebraska Posts: 55	steel targets...making my own So I've got some scrap tool steel chunks laying around. Targets made from AR500 are kinda pricey, the thought crossed my mind to make my own out of the tool steel I have on hand and heat treat them. Plus I'm always looking for a good project. Has anyone made there own hardened steel targets? These will be shot at with small fast rounds .204, 22-250 and .223 at 200+ yards. The sites I've looked at online say that AR500 is 470-520-ish brinell. That translates to about 50HRC-ish. So I thought I would start there as far as hardness. (I don't have access to a brinell scale.) I'm wanting longevity but I don't want it to crack in half from being too brittle either, I normally use paper targets. As far as thickness I was thinking 1/2". Any input in regards to smaller higher velocity rounds against steel targets would be greatly appriciated, be they purchased or homemade. Thanks Mods feel free to move this thread if it is not in the right place. Sent from my iPhone using auto correct.

June 14, 2013, 06:41 PM	#2
Roughedge Senior Member Join Date: January 24, 2011 Location: Monroe,NC Posts: 669	I wanted to set up a range at the house so I maned up and bought $500.00 worth. They've held up well but they say shoot with rifle at 100 yds or more. I shoot AR's at 50 yards with no damage. A few weeks ago I shoot a 7mag at 80 yds and punched a hole in one like it was drilled and it was a core lock bullet. I think with 308 or smaller you should be fine. __________________ The man that die's with the most stuff win's!

June 15, 2013, 10:01 PM	#3
Mausermolt Senior Member Join Date: June 16, 2007 Location: Ory-gun Posts: 508	i just used "regular" 1/2'' steel until i started punching holes in it then i welded on another 1/2 " as soon as i punch holes in this batch ill just fill in holes with the welder. __________________ Molon Labe

June 16, 2013, 12:52 AM	#4
allaroundhunter Senior Member Join Date: May 6, 2012 Location: Southeast Texas Posts: 1,670	Re: steel targets...making my own Your .22-250 is even a nightmare for AR500 steel. It is recommended not to shoot it at less than 250 yards. If you are trying to use scrap steel and hope that it will stand up to that, well, it probably won't... With AR500 steel you want the impact velocity to be sub-3000 fps, but I am keeping my impact velocities under 2750 to help a little more with longevity.

June 16, 2013, 02:24 PM	#5
happymachinist Member Join Date: December 11, 2012 Location: Central Nebraska Posts: 55	steel targets...making my own Thanks for the input guys. I may be asking for more than any steel target can take I suppose. I didn't know what the magic number for maximum bullet velocity was or what I should try to stay below, obviously the slower the better but at least I have an idea now. This is what I've come up with. I need to add some stakes to the rear I think but it should be a good place to start. The target is A2 tool steel 1/2" thick. It came out a little harder than I wanted to I need to re-temper it at a higher temp. I fear it would be to brittle as it sits. I'll post up some pics when I get a chance to do a little shooting, see how the A2 holds up. Might not be as good as AR500 but the price was right. Sent from my iPhone using auto correct.

June 16, 2013, 07:24 PM	#6
tobnpr Senior Member Join Date: August 1, 2010 Location: Tampa Bay Posts: 4,556	The danger in any steel plate is that if cratered, it's impossible to predict the frag direction if a bullet strikes a crater. I bought 4" and 12" AR500 plates from a guy at the Hide that makes them, thousands of rounds on them and not a single crater. But they're never shot inside 200 and mostly at 600. Best way to hang them is from the back side- running bolts through the holes and attaching them from the back. This angles the plate slightly downwards to direct the frags down into the dirt. I used to use chains, but found that wire is less likely to get hit because of it's thinner profile- and much easier to quickly replace when the firing line goes cold. I keep a bunch of them pre-cut in the range bag and can replace one in seconds.

August 14, 2013, 06:47 PM	#9
mwmjones Member Join Date: December 4, 2001 Posts: 77	how does a .308 or 30.06 do on these plates?

August 14, 2013, 07:31 PM	#10
PawPaw Senior Member Join Date: December 24, 2010 Location: Central Louisiana Posts: 3,137	I cut down an old swingset frame for hanging steel targets and it works quite well. We've got a variety of targets we've collected over the years, both heavy (thick) mild steel, and commercial AR 500 targets that we shoot with several hunting rifles, from 7mm Mag, to .30-06, .308, and .25-06. Surprisingly, the .25-06 (117 Gameking at 2900 fps) puts a bigger divot in the target than the 7mm Magnum (140 grain Ballistic Tip at 3100 fps). Here's the AR500 target shot with the same rifles. Mild steel, when shot with hunting bullets, produces divots in the target and those might be the cause of a ricochet. When you shoot an AR500 target with a hunting bullet, the bullet comes apart. It's interesting to have a bunch of grandkids shooting steel, then call the range cold and go down to look at the ground around the target. There's all sorts of bullet powder down there, little slivers of lead and jacket. One thing I've learned; don't hang your targets with chain. A common hunting bullet will cut a chain like a hot knife cuts butter. I hang my targets with old scraps of towing strap, or if you can find it, old pieces of fire-hose. While a bullet will cut a chain, it will zip through a piece of strap. And just as sure as you're in the middle of a good shoot, someone is going to throw one a little bit high and cut the chain.