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#1 |
Member
Join Date: February 20, 2013
Posts: 77
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Didn't Clean My SKS
I didn't clean my sks for 2 days after shooting it. I shot about 30 rds through it. Is that really really bad? I'm going to clean it when I get home today. Its a Chinese Norinco with a chrome lined barrel.
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 18, 2013
Location: closer than you think
Posts: 967
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I wouldn't leave it dirty long with corrosive ammo, but even if it is your probably fine. If it's non-corrosive ammo I wouldn't even worry about it.
Boomer |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 26, 2005
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 351
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With the SKS, the chrome-lined barrel is of less concern than the firing pin area in the bolt.
There have been instances in the past of rusty firing pins sticking in the channel in such a way as to cause slam-fires, with at least one documented fatality occurring at a range when the shooter lost control of his weapon when it slam-fired, shooting himself. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 23, 2009
Posts: 3,963
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That chrome-lined barrel is pretty forgiving. Clean it this week, and give the gas port a scrub, and bolt face, if you don't take it down for a real Saturday Night bath.
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 18, 2013
Location: closer than you think
Posts: 967
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R1145 is totally correct. If you've never cleaned your firing pin do it. Make sure the pin go's jingle jingle. If the firing pin sticks in the forward position it may strike the primer when you close the bolt. If the pin isn't freed by the round going off it will continue to fire ever time the bolt closes until your mag is empty. As R1145 stated this is called a "slam fire".
Full auto can be lots of fun, but it's not so fun if you're not ready and you can't stop until your mags empty! Be safe. Boomer |
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: February 20, 2013
Posts: 77
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Thanks a lot, I had just had a long week (3rd shift) and was really tired when I got home from shooting Saturday so I went straight to bed. Sunday I didn't even think about it so I'll get to it as soon as I get home today. I gun had never been fired, ever, in its life, prior to Saturday. I had cleaned out all the cosmoline and lubed it up real good for its first time out. Matching serial number, the internal mechanics didn't even have the slightest scratch on them.
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: July 21, 2011
Location: Idaho
Posts: 7,839
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not really, even if you were shooting corrosives out of it. I've left my chicom sks(it's not really a norinco, just chinese) for about 2 weeks one time before shooting it and didn't find a spec of rust inside. SKS aren't nearly as bad as WASRs or other cheap AK clones.
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ignore my complete lack of capitalization. I still have no problem correcting your grammar. I never said half the stuff people said I did-Albert Einstein You can't believe everything you read on the internet-Benjamin Franklin |
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 24, 2008
Location: Orange, TX
Posts: 3,078
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No rifle is indestructible, but the AK and SKS rifles come about as close as you can get. Consider the treatment these things receive at the hands of freedom fighters across the globe, and still keep going and going and going. I think your rifle's going to be just fine.
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: October 26, 2008
Posts: 726
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LOL... I bought mine in 1992 and I don't think I've ever cleaned it.
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SailSkiDrive Hk USP 45 Expert, USP 40, USP 9, SIG P226, S&W M&P9, Hk 4, Makarov, Desert Eagle 40, Beretta FS92 Centurion, Kimber TLEII 1911A1, Glock 22, SIG P225, 1943 Rem Rand 1911A1, S&W mod 64, Walther PPQ, SIG P229, Browning BDA 45 (SIG P220), Hk45, SIG P230 |
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: December 31, 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 2,076
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If it is non-corrosive ammo, quit stressing and get to it when you get to it...
If it is corrosive, then get to it now, and give special attention to bolt, and gas tube... |
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#11 |
Member
Join Date: May 9, 2013
Posts: 49
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I highly recommend a Bore Snake for this reason. Wet the end with some cleaner, run it through, and you've done 90% of the cleaning in 30 seconds. If you use corrosive ammo, yeah, you should probably clean it properly, but the SKS is as reliable as semiautos get. I see people bragging in forums about how many rounds they put through their before cleaning. I don't know why you'd brag about that, but it shows they can take a lot of abuse, at least.
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#12 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 30, 2013
Posts: 1,037
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Quote:
You likely didn't do any damage to the gun, but do yourself a favor and get a boresnake and some hopes #9 and snake the bore a few times before and after you shoot. It's intended just for quick cleanings and wont do the same job if you get in there with a "real" cleaning kit. For the record I've never used anything but a boresnake on my M77 bolt action, and the bore looks amazing. I also try not to let too much copper or carbon build up so cleaning is easier. If I waited hundreds of round the snake would probably be pointless. |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 18, 2013
Location: closer than you think
Posts: 967
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YouTube- corrosive ammo in sks after 2200 rounds and a month of neglect. Check it out. Sorry I haven't figured out how to post a link yet.
Boomer |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 27, 2002
Location: Arizona
Posts: 445
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I bought my first SKS in the 1970's (when ammo, IF you could find it, was $1/round). It was a Russian that was a Viet Nam bring back.
The rifle had been buried, dug up, shot at GI's, and buried again. The wood is partially eroded away, the exterior is lightly rusted, but the rifle fires every time! These ComBlock guns were made to be abused. I would never intentionally abuse one, but you should be just fine. |
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 23, 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 347
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*snicker* last time I had my SKS out, it sat for a month before I got around to cleaning.
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: February 18, 2008
Location: About 20 nm from the Big Muddy
Posts: 2,899
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rfxcasey:
When I use the corrosive ammo in my Yugo Mauser, the cleaning happens as soon as I get home. It only takes ten minutes. 1) Windex down the chamber (a funnel helps) with the muzzle held downwards, rubbing the bore with wet patches, a wet brush for the rifling, then dry patches. 2) Doing the same in the chamber and bolt face is really easy. 3) A hair dryer is aimed down the bore for three minutes, just to make sure. It's not the fault of these guns that they were manufactured in Communist countries, and I also don't hold a grudge against my Norinco SKS- it is cleaned within a week, even though the ammo is Wolf or Monarch. We are lucky to have these "Commie guns". What would they cost if they were manufactured here nowadays? Guns we take care of hold their value much more than abused guns, and one day my son will be able to sell them for more money if he doesn't want to keep them...we can't predict that we won't be incapacitated by a medical condition or untimely death. Last edited by Ignition Override; May 26, 2013 at 01:33 AM. |
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#17 |
Member
Join Date: February 6, 2013
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 98
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After reading this thread I started thinking (that trouble) that I did not clean my SKS after the last time I shot it. That was about 2 months ago and only shot 45 to 50 rounds of non-corrosive rounds. The last time I bought 7.62X39 might be 15 years ago.
Well took the gun apart and the firing pin was not stuck but it was very stiff and would not slide back and forth without any help. Took the gun down all the way but did not pull the barrel out of the stock. Can not remember the last time that has happened. Thanks for getting me thinking................... |
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#18 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 14, 2013
Posts: 14
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I agree with the use of Windex for cleaning any firearm that has used corrosive ammo, or just the possibility of having used corrosive ammo, but make sure it's the Windex with ammonia. It's the ammonia that neutralizes the acidic combustion products from the corrosive rated ammo (such as mercury salts from the primer). I usually rinse the components with very hot water that have come in contact with the ammonia. An excess of ammonia is as corrosive as the acidic residues from combustion. Final drying with a hair dryer is an excellent choice before lubing components. If you can't find Windex with ammonia, you can make some by adding ammonia solution from the laundry detergent section of the store to a bottle of Windex. Pour about a quarter of the bottle of Windex in another container, and add ammonia to the original container to make up the volume. If you do a lot of shooting with surplus ammo, you might want to make your Windex/ammonia solution stronger (i.e., 1/3 ammonia to 2/3 Windex). I understand that the corrosive primers in surplus ammo stay viable (capable of combustion) longer than no-corrosive primers. If you want to store some long term, you might want to use corrosive ammo. Just sayin'.
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