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drail · November 6, 2012, 04:34 PM

Your action will improved much more by stoning all of the burrs out of the frame that Ruger leaves in every gun. Especially inside the hole the trigger return springs rides in. And both inside surfaces of the frame where the trigger and hammer rub against it. Smooth all of the corners of the hammer strut. They're stamped and have a finish like a hacksaw. I would clean up the internals before I put any different springs in. Do not touch the hammer and sear surfaces at all. On a kit with multiple choices go with the middle of the range and see if it bangs 100%. If not go up one spring weight. Even if the lighter springs work you are slowing down the lock time (hammer fall) and the trigger's reset speed by using them. Most revolvers feel great after just removing the burrs. My wife has the same gun as you and hers is running stock springs but has a very smooth medium weight DA pull. Then shoot the heck out of it.

November 6, 2012, 04:34 PM	#8
drail Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2008 Posts: 3,150	Your action will improved much more by stoning all of the burrs out of the frame that Ruger leaves in every gun. Especially inside the hole the trigger return springs rides in. And both inside surfaces of the frame where the trigger and hammer rub against it. Smooth all of the corners of the hammer strut. They're stamped and have a finish like a hacksaw. I would clean up the internals before I put any different springs in. Do not touch the hammer and sear surfaces at all. On a kit with multiple choices go with the middle of the range and see if it bangs 100%. If not go up one spring weight. Even if the lighter springs work you are slowing down the lock time (hammer fall) and the trigger's reset speed by using them. Most revolvers feel great after just removing the burrs. My wife has the same gun as you and hers is running stock springs but has a very smooth medium weight DA pull. Then shoot the heck out of it. Last edited by drail; November 6, 2012 at 04:41 PM.