Quote:
|
• Bolt-action or lever-action
|
Either is good, but I'd go turnbolt in a tie, for sure. Easier to clean, more positive extraction in dirty conditions, slightly lighter typically.
Quote:
|
• Regarding calibers, I was recommended to choose between .308 Winchester and .30-06 Springfield
|
Almost a wash, but I'd go (and have and do) .30-'06.... ammo is cheaper and more plentiful. And a little more oomph. But doesn't really matter - pick what appeals to you. Shorter bolt throw on .308. I don't buy that recoil is "25% less" - with same bullet, more like 10% less.
Quote:
|
• Stainless steel/aluminum alloy/titanium (not many guns around with titanium as far as I know, still worth mentioning I suppose), no carbon steel
|
Sure, why not.
Quote:
|
• For the stock, I'd prefer laminated wood but I'll still consider synthetic as well (as much as I admire the beauty of wood I worry it about its durability in my weather)
|
Wood, definitely. Or a composite of various materials including fiberglass, aramid fiber, carbon fiber, and graphite. Down with ordinary polymers. See sig.
Quote:
|
• All-around simple; I tend to avoid proprietary designs (especially when gimmicky) if they make it more difficult to maintain or repair the gun
|
Good call, but all turnbolts are proprietary in the strict sense, exept perhaps the 98 Mauser and other old designs in the public domain.
Quote:
|
• Quality is of the utmost importance
|
Yes. Think Weatherby Mark V, Browning A-Bolt, Winchester 70, Steyr, Sako 85, Blaser (straight pull), or even a Mauser M12 or M3. Or if you can find it, a NIB (discontinued) T/C Icon Classic. Rem 700 and Ruger 77 are OK as well, particularly a high-end Remington 700. With this parameter, why get a Tikka when you can get its higher-quality big brother, a Sako?
Go for the Blaser R8 or R93 if you want the utmost quality, as you said:
http://www.blaser-usa.com/index.php?L=1