View Single Post
Old April 1, 2012, 04:58 AM   #6
Mike / Tx
Senior Member
 
Join Date: April 8, 2000
Posts: 2,101
Since your looking at the lead bullets and shooting for accuracy you might also want to look into picking up some Unique, possibly some AA-5, and some 2400. Usually I would not throw the AA-5 in there, but two weeks ago I was shooting with a friend who was loading it under cast for his 44, and the accuracy was awesome and the velocities were right in the 1150 - 1250fps range, and VERY consistent. It was enough to make me reconsider some I have sitting on my shelf.

That said, and I know this has been cussed and discussed, I always start out with new cases trimmed to length. I have found that is does make a difference in my loads. Once I decide on the intended purpose I work from there. I hunt with my revolvers and shots might be ranges from feet to out around 100yds, so I want everything as tight as possible. I usually test at 25 until I am cutting 1" and them move out to 50.

I throw all my powder from a RCBS Uniflow so I usually stick with well metering powders. Once I have decided, like mentioned above, what I am looking for in velocity and or bullet weight, that will also dictate which powders I choose from. Overall I use Unique, 2400 and 296 for 95% of my revolver loads. This will take me from mild to wild with out having several different powders dedicated to one particular load. When I set up I use the small drum in the Uniflow, and I use 1/8 turn increments depending on the powder being use. This usually works out around .2 - .5 of a grain. I will load and shoot 6 rounds for group through my chrono as you mentioned. It doesn't hurt anything to do both as long as your rested so you don't shoot the chrony.

Once I hit the velocity range I am looking for with a particular bullet, or a great group, I will then load up a dozen or so and shoot a group with each chamber of the cyliner to make sure one isn't causing a flyer. I have had this happen with several loads through the year with no explanation as to why. Once I am confident everything is good I move on out to 50yds. If the load is still good there and everything is stable bullet wise, I might move out to 100 depending on where I am, or what I am shooting. For the most part, my 41, 44, and 454 all are shot for group at 100yds from a good rest. If the groups is 6" or less I am happy, and most times they are less. The 45 Colt I resolve to 50yds but have shot it out to 100 and while it takes a while to get there it does an great job of holding them together if I do my part.

Primers will also play a big role in your loads accuracy, especially with lead bullets. They are a bit easier to move out of the case so you might want to play with several to see if they help or kill your groups. I usually don't go top end, and once you have a known load it's easy to drop a grain or two and swap out the primer and work right back up. My personal fav's in order are Winchester, CCI, and Wolf. I find the latter has produced some groups which exceeded anything I got with the others by a fair margin with certain bullets, especially cast, in the 44 and 454. Not sure why just happens and I am not knocking it.

One last thing, and as above with the trimming it draw fire from some folks, is the crimp. While there is no substitute for good case tension, a crimp can be overdone, and when it happens accuracy suffers. Like I mentioned I shoot out past 25yds on a regular basis and do so both from a rest and offhand. I usually try and only use enough of a crimp to actually hold the bullet in place and nothing more. This can quickly be found once you hit the velocity level your looking for, and with cast that might be at the point you see groups spread or leading starts. Once there you can load up a dozen or so rounds and check real quick to see if you have enough. I load 6 rounds, then fire two, and measure the others for creep. If I see nothing I fire the next two and recheck, of none fire the next round. Usually if there is going to be any it will show in the last round, as it has been through the other five firings. If there is movement I set a bit more crimp and repeat. Once there is no movement I recheck my groups across my chrono, and usually things are as good or better than with the tighter crimp. This is where the trimmed cases REALLY shine, as everything is more consistent.

Might be a lot of steps, but when I am done, I know that my ammo is the best I can make for that particular revolver, and if the groups aren't there it isn't he gun, or ammo, that needs work.
__________________
LAter,
Mike / TX
Mike / Tx is offline  
 
Page generated in 0.03387 seconds with 8 queries