Madcratebuilder wrote:
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IMHO you should only have to use firm thumb pressure to seat the wedge. I don't believe in using the wedge to adjust the barrel/cylinder gap as some do. I believe the gap is controlled by the frame, barrel lug and arbor fit. If your using the wedge to close up the gap your tilting the barrel up. Most of the revolvers I have bought required work in the area to make them fit correct. Once that is accomplished you should not have any problems with the wedge.
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I agree with Mad Crate - almost.
I also usually just poke the wedge in with my thumb or with a rap from the heel of my hand - however - I do have one revolver that I can't do that with. The wedge spring on this one sticks up a lot and it is a real pain to even get the darned thing started in the barrel slot.
If the wedge is pulled completely out of the barrel slot, I've got to use a pair pf needle nose pliers to hold the spring down so it can be squeezed under the wedge screw.
I've got to tap it in with something more substantial than flesh and bone.
One of these days I'm going to bend it down and maybe stake it in by peening over the slot in the wedge a little bit.