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Misssissippi Dave · June 15, 2013, 07:03 AM

These days getting reloading components can be a pain. I prefer either WST or AA5 powder for 9 mm. W231/HP-38 and WSF work well too. Some people also like bullseye and Unique for their pistol loads. I don't care too much for those personally. Most powders that work for 9 mm will also work for .38 special and .45 acp. .357 Magnum does need a slower power to work right. If you find some AA7, AA9. AA4100, H110/W296 or similar powders you should be good. You might want to check your load data and see what it lists for the loads you are wanting to do. Take the list of powders with you when you are searching for powder. Some do work better than others but the listed powders should all let you load some ammo until you can find what works for you. I would only get powders in 1 pound bottles right now. Once you have gone through a couple of pounds of a powder and are still happy with it you might want to look for it in larger containers.

The Speer manual tends to list powders they think work better for a given load first and the worst at the bottom. I don't know if anyone else does this. Some manuals seem to go by the name of the powder or the speed of the powder. There doesn't seem to be any hard and fast rule on this.

I have found with .357 magnum loads I can work up a load with just about any powder listed in the books using a magnum primer. You do have to start at the lowest listed data and work up slowly. Some powders will list data using a magnum primer and for those loads that is what I will only use if it states to use one.

When you seat a primer it should be slightly below the base of the case. I normally just put all my ammo in the plastic holder the factory used so I can run my finger across them to feel if any seem to be high. It is a quick way to check and also lets me count the rounds I have loaded. I often store finished ammo in freezer bags and tupperware. I find the tupperware or similar containers hold up much longer than the factory boxes ever did. You can write on the lid or side of the container what you have inside. Sticker type labels seem to work better on the sides. Load data such as the powder used and weight, the bullet used and weight along with the OAL plus date are very helpful to track what you have in the container.

Many things can be used to store finished ammo. The ones that are air tight I like better.

June 15, 2013, 07:03 AM	#28
Misssissippi Dave Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2009 Posts: 1,411	These days getting reloading components can be a pain. I prefer either WST or AA5 powder for 9 mm. W231/HP-38 and WSF work well too. Some people also like bullseye and Unique for their pistol loads. I don't care too much for those personally. Most powders that work for 9 mm will also work for .38 special and .45 acp. .357 Magnum does need a slower power to work right. If you find some AA7, AA9. AA4100, H110/W296 or similar powders you should be good. You might want to check your load data and see what it lists for the loads you are wanting to do. Take the list of powders with you when you are searching for powder. Some do work better than others but the listed powders should all let you load some ammo until you can find what works for you. I would only get powders in 1 pound bottles right now. Once you have gone through a couple of pounds of a powder and are still happy with it you might want to look for it in larger containers. The Speer manual tends to list powders they think work better for a given load first and the worst at the bottom. I don't know if anyone else does this. Some manuals seem to go by the name of the powder or the speed of the powder. There doesn't seem to be any hard and fast rule on this. I have found with .357 magnum loads I can work up a load with just about any powder listed in the books using a magnum primer. You do have to start at the lowest listed data and work up slowly. Some powders will list data using a magnum primer and for those loads that is what I will only use if it states to use one. When you seat a primer it should be slightly below the base of the case. I normally just put all my ammo in the plastic holder the factory used so I can run my finger across them to feel if any seem to be high. It is a quick way to check and also lets me count the rounds I have loaded. I often store finished ammo in freezer bags and tupperware. I find the tupperware or similar containers hold up much longer than the factory boxes ever did. You can write on the lid or side of the container what you have inside. Sticker type labels seem to work better on the sides. Load data such as the powder used and weight, the bullet used and weight along with the OAL plus date are very helpful to track what you have in the container. Many things can be used to store finished ammo. The ones that are air tight I like better.