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Gatofeo · December 9, 2012, 06:25 PM

I imagine you looking very lordly with that hat, washing the dishes in your pink checkerboard apron while the "Queen" finds other things for you to do!

Just joshing ya, no harm meant.

I cut my own .36-caliber wads with a 3/8" wad cutter. Perfect fit for all my .36 calibers.
For .45 caliber, I found the 7/16" wad cutter too small. I want a wad big enough to cling to the chamber wall a bit, thereby ensuring a firm fit in the chamber. I use the 7/16" to cut wads for my .44-40 though, where it's just the right size. It could also be used for the .44 Special and Magnum.
For the .45-caliber, some years ago I paid $18 for a .45-caliber wad cutter from Buffalo Arms. This wad cutter is intended for .45-caliber cartridge rifles, and provides a firm fit in my .44-caliber cap and ball revolvers.

I always cut the wads before lubricating, and set a few of the unlubricated ones aside. I can use the unlubed ones as an over-powder wad against the black powder, or lubricate them later with some new lube I'm trying.
But mostly, I lube them with the lubricant named after me: Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant:
1 part canning paraffin
1 part mutton tallow
1/2 part beeswax
All measurements are by weight, not volume.
This recipe is based on a 19th century factory lubricant recipe for outside lubricated bullets, which I found in an old magazine.
I tweaked the recipe a bit by using very specific paraffin and tallow, whereas the old factory recipe simply listed "paraffin" and "tallow."
I've had exceptional succes with this lubricant in all black powder applications: wads, shotgun wads, bullets and patches for round balls.
It's too stiff to luricate the cylinder pin on revolvers, though.

Some years ago I bought a large sheet of 1/4" hard felt from Durofelt. Cost me $27 as I recall, Durofelt ships to the lower 48 for free, and I calculate I can make about 8,000 wads from this one piece.
Later, I bought 1/4" felt, chiefly to make space-taking wads for lighter loads in my revolvers. Beats measuring out corn meal to fill the chamber, and the (lubricated) 1/4" wad keeps the bore cleaner.
Yes, I could use TWO 1/8" wads but the 1/4" sheet felt also comes in handy for making wads for my .50-caliber muzzleloading rifle, between the patched round ball and powder.
The great thing about having a proper wad cutter is that you can custom-make wads, whether bone dry, containing your homemade or store-bought lubricant.
I much prefer hard wool felt, as it's porous and soaks up a lot of lubricant. This does much to keep fouling soft, and moving parts lubricated as lubricant is micro-sprayed over these parts with each shot.
The hard felt apparently has a scraping effect as well, reducing bore fouling.
When I use grease over the ball, the last 1/3 of my revolver barrels (from muzzle back) is coated heavily in foulilng. With lubricated wads, bores are much cleaner throughout their length.

December 9, 2012, 06:25 PM	#11
Gatofeo Senior Member Join Date: October 1, 2004 Location: Remote Utah desert Posts: 224	I imagine you looking very lordly with that hat, washing the dishes in your pink checkerboard apron while the "Queen" finds other things for you to do! Just joshing ya, no harm meant. I cut my own .36-caliber wads with a 3/8" wad cutter. Perfect fit for all my .36 calibers. For .45 caliber, I found the 7/16" wad cutter too small. I want a wad big enough to cling to the chamber wall a bit, thereby ensuring a firm fit in the chamber. I use the 7/16" to cut wads for my .44-40 though, where it's just the right size. It could also be used for the .44 Special and Magnum. For the .45-caliber, some years ago I paid $18 for a .45-caliber wad cutter from Buffalo Arms. This wad cutter is intended for .45-caliber cartridge rifles, and provides a firm fit in my .44-caliber cap and ball revolvers. I always cut the wads before lubricating, and set a few of the unlubricated ones aside. I can use the unlubed ones as an over-powder wad against the black powder, or lubricate them later with some new lube I'm trying. But mostly, I lube them with the lubricant named after me: Gatofeo No. 1 Lubricant: 1 part canning paraffin 1 part mutton tallow 1/2 part beeswax All measurements are by weight, not volume. This recipe is based on a 19th century factory lubricant recipe for outside lubricated bullets, which I found in an old magazine. I tweaked the recipe a bit by using very specific paraffin and tallow, whereas the old factory recipe simply listed "paraffin" and "tallow." I've had exceptional succes with this lubricant in all black powder applications: wads, shotgun wads, bullets and patches for round balls. It's too stiff to luricate the cylinder pin on revolvers, though. Some years ago I bought a large sheet of 1/4" hard felt from Durofelt. Cost me $27 as I recall, Durofelt ships to the lower 48 for free, and I calculate I can make about 8,000 wads from this one piece. Later, I bought 1/4" felt, chiefly to make space-taking wads for lighter loads in my revolvers. Beats measuring out corn meal to fill the chamber, and the (lubricated) 1/4" wad keeps the bore cleaner. Yes, I could use TWO 1/8" wads but the 1/4" sheet felt also comes in handy for making wads for my .50-caliber muzzleloading rifle, between the patched round ball and powder. The great thing about having a proper wad cutter is that you can custom-make wads, whether bone dry, containing your homemade or store-bought lubricant. I much prefer hard wool felt, as it's porous and soaks up a lot of lubricant. This does much to keep fouling soft, and moving parts lubricated as lubricant is micro-sprayed over these parts with each shot. The hard felt apparently has a scraping effect as well, reducing bore fouling. When I use grease over the ball, the last 1/3 of my revolver barrels (from muzzle back) is coated heavily in foulilng. With lubricated wads, bores are much cleaner throughout their length. __________________ "And lo, did I see an ugly cat. Smoke. Brimstone. Holes in parchment. And this ugly cat was much amused." --- The Prophesies of Gatodamus (1503 - 1566)