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Old December 16, 2010, 09:20 PM   #39
HighValleyRanch
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Join Date: July 15, 2005
Posts: 4,063
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HVR,

So I resurrected this thread as I am going forward with a pancake like yours for my father's Bearcat. I won't get the tools or the revolver until Christmas time and I have to pick up a couple things yet too. I have a few questions for you.

1) Did you use a Thonging Chisel to make the stitching holes?

2) Did you use a 1/16" punch for the stud holes and the non-straight stitch holes".

3) I have never made a holster; how do you protect the gun while molding the leather shape?

That's all for now, lol. Thanks for your input.

Also, I would love to see the finished Bearcat holsters if you have a pic or two.
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Mike
Sorry Lashlaroe,
I lost track of the thread when they moved it over to the gear section.
I hate that because it limits the amount of general viewers and it's harder to keep track of your posts and replys on various forums.

Anyways, here are some of the answers.

I have a 4 prong flat chisel punch made for punching slotted holes that I use for the stitching line. Some people use the star roller which rolls along the line and marks the points in various increments, but I don't like that . The four prong slot cutter precuts the first layer and it makes it easier for the awl stitcher to puncher cleanly. The main thing in the stitching is to make sure the tension is even and the loop is hidden in the leather. Better to hove the loop show on the back side, but the front has to look even with the thread coming out of the holes cleanly. It will be apparent when you make some mistakes that it didn't come out even. Have to screw up to learn, so start making a bunch of small projects to learn.

I make the stitching line AFTER I wet mold the leather to fit the gun.
More on this later.
After you mark the stitching line, use the four prong punch ( I like the small one with tighter holes) and always insert one of the prongs into the last hole to keep aligned as I move down the line. I use regular sharp point punch for marking the really curvy holes. On the studs that are two prong, I drew a line parallel to the stitching line for the inside prongs. Then I measured 1 inch increments and marked the stud line with the punch lightly. Then I measured 1/4 inch (for the 1/4 studs) out at every increment for the outer prong. I then used the punch to MARK the holes and used an awl to actully pierce the leather. Once all the 2 prong holes for the studs were pierced, I poked the studs in, flipped over the leather and tapped the prongs together with a small hammer. Tandys has a stud installer, but FORGET USING IT. It is a POC and it is better to use the method I describe. Using their tool will result in disaster, because the stud can move around and will no puncher the thick leather on its own accord.

3. After I do the carving, I let the carving dry. Then I spray the sides that are not carved and the entire back to get the leather soft enough to mold. I use to dunk the whole carved piece, but lost too much detail in the carving, so now only wet the leather enough to mold. I place the gun on a flay piece of plywood and spray the leather with a windex bottle to get the leather just wet enough to mold. Then I put the carved leather piece over the gun and gently work the shape with my hands. I work on the sight side first as that is the straight edge. Bend the holster over the gun and work out the flat bend, the vertical side and then the softer top bend over the gun.
At this point I use another 1/4 inch piece of plywood to hold down the straight side. I screw it over the leather (remembering where to keep the leather pristine) to hold it down flat to the plywood forming board. Once the sight (straight) side is screwed down, then I can work the leather over the gun and start to form the trigger, ejector side. I work it so that the leather comes out flat on this trigger side, and cut a scrap of 14 plywood to hold that side down. finally, I use a piece across the bottom if I want an enclosed bottom holster. The bottom takes some work because the leather is scruntched on both sides and needs flattening down. Might need to spray wetter to do this. If the leather doesn't mold, it needs to be wetter, but it doesn't need to be sopping wet. The leather is very open to marks at this point, so watch that you don't make unnecessary marks with finger nails, tools or anything while molding.
Sometimes I protect the gun with saran wrap or even just a plastic bag. Other times I leave the gun unprotected, because the leather is not soping wet, so the gun gets wet, but can be easily wiped off. You can oil the gun as well to protect it. The moisture issue is not as bad as you think.

At some point when I have more time, I will do a whole tutorial that be stickied for people to learn the process. Photos would help the above descriptions and a carve along might be nice.

Here's one pic of the finished holsters:
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