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FWIW, the references to holding the bolt's temper, above, in my experience have more to do with the cocking cam surface adjacent to the handle root, than the locking lugs.
If the cocking cam loses it's casehardening, it will gall with some use, making the rifle harder to cock/open - adding to the force needed to lift the handle.
Use good heat sinks, as above, and deeply chamfer all edges to be welded, so the weld penetrates as deeply as possible.
Bending a forged handle is strongest/best, but not for everyone, since some may prefer a different style knob, that's hard to make from the issue knob - say, one like a Rem 700 flat/checkered knob, or from some other admired rifle.
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