LarryNTX
When I first came into the forums I got a lot of bad info and took people at their word. My first Enfield was refinished with Behr Tung Oil and it turned out to not have any tung oil in it and was nothing more than a linseed oil base wiping varnish. (with modified pine sap in it)
As you can see below the words:
"Most finishes today contain petroleum distillates, solvents or
heavy metal drier additives" and these toxic chemicals should NOT be applied bare handed. British, Canadian and Australia have stricter health laws that forbid these additives from being added. So remember "WHO" and from "WHAT" country information is given here in these forums.
"Tried & True™ Traditional Finishes
Most finishes today contain petroleum distillates, solvents or heavy metal drier additives. These don't. Developed largely from polymerized linseed oil with other natural-product additives, the finishes strictly adhere to the standards established by the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) and qualify as non-toxic and safe for food-contact surfaces in both their uncured and cured (wet and dry) states.
Made using traditional 18th-century production techniques, all are high-yield finishes, providing coverage of at least 75 square feet per 16 fl oz/473ml. We offer three easy-to-use formulas: Original Wood Finish, Danish Oil and Varnish Oil.
Original Wood Finish
Dubbed a "true general-purpose finish", the Original Wood Finish formula is a highly refined polymerized linseed oil with pure beeswax as an additive. Adapted from a Shaker recipe, the finish produces a warm antique sheen that is luminous without appearing glossy.
Ideal for all interior woodwork, including doors, windows, trim, cabinets and furniture, a thin coat of finish is applied, allowed to penetrate for 60 minutes, wiped, buffed dry and allowed to cure 24 hours between applications. Three coats are recommended for furniture application; two coats are sufficient for most other surfaces. Periodically buff surfaces to maintain sheen.
Danish Oil
The Danish Oil is pure polymerized linseed oil with no additives. An ideal choice for kitchenware and furniture, it penetrates deeply into wood surfaces and builds to a durable, water-resistant satin sheen.
The oil is applied sparingly to the surface, allowed to penetrate for 5 minutes and then wiped clean and buffed dry. Subsequent coats can be applied in as little as 24 hours though allowing 2 to 3 days between coats will speed curing of the finish. Good protection is achieved with 2 to 3 coats. Buff surfaces occasionally to maintain sheen.
Varnish Oil
The Varnish Oil is a combination of highly refined polymerized linseed oil and natural-resin varnish (modified pine sap). Its high resin content produces a durable water-resistant finish that buffs to a warm semi-gloss sheen.
Application is straightforward—brush or wipe on in moderation, leave to penetrate for 60 minutes, then wipe and buff dry. Additional coats can be applied after as little as 24 hours with two to three coats recommended for best protection. Maintain sheen with an occasional buff with a soft, clean cloth.
Simple, environmentally-friendly finishing solutions available in 16 fl oz/473ml and 32 fl oz/946ml containers."
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...at=1,190,42942
In the past I have used BLO mixed 25/75 BLO and Turp and a wall paper wetting tray to "soak" the stock to get much deeper penetration. It can and has saved me from having to do bedding work on fore stocks with wood shrinkage. (and wore rubber gloves)