The Firing Line Forums - View Single Post

745SW · July 21, 2012, 03:36 PM

Nope. I’ve had three Colt Gold Cups and now it’s down to only one. Broke many a magazine by fracturing the weld at the floor plate, ammo would suddenly be on the ground. Played with the extractor by bending it and taking a Dremel to it. Dremeled the two-piece feed ramp too.

I believe the issue is the design not workmanship or material. I’ve had Colt Gold Cups that were non symmetrical in terms of machining of the flat area of the dust cover that was obvious with the naked eye comparing right to left sides of the pistol. Even the Phyton I have has non-symmetry at the trigger guard, again comparing right to left sides. Aesthetics only perhaps but I don’t like it.

Issues with the 1911 date back to at least Jeff Cooper’s time when he pointed out when the staked plunger tube becomes unglued.

The plunger tube houses the spring loaded pins for the takedown lever and safety located at the top of the left grip panel.

My choice for a 45ACP is the S&W 745. Never had a need or desire to take a Dremel to any of my 745’s. As some would say my S&W’s would eat virtually anything and not complain/hiccup. Like many auto-loaders the 745 appears to take after the Browning Hi-Power with no barrel bushing, plunger tube or welded magazine floor plate.

Personally I group the 1911 with P-08 Luger, aesthetically appealing and interesting design but not very practical for actual use.

Edit:
Something’s I should have mentioned or clarified. I have taken a Dremel to my some of my 745’s not because of reliability issues but because of preference. Some material at the top of the trigger where it engages the trigger bar is removed to shorten the free play of the trigger, this free play is the movement of the trigger before the trigger actually moves the sear. This usually requires a fair amount of material removal. Another area of slight material removal is at the hammer spur because of its sharp edges. I only used the emery embedded rubber wheel of the Dremel manually without the power tool of the Dremel.

The trigger of the 745 is unusual it that it has absolutely no interaction with the safety on the slide. The hammer can be dropped with the safety on, kinda funky and something to keep in mind. Trigger bar is dual sided giving no feel of flex at all. Trigger has two adjustments, backlash adjustment screw is mounted on the frame and is clearly visible. Trigger position screw is within the frame out of view, it positions the trigger relative to the frame or trigger guard. Free play has no adjustment is the reason for the above material removal, this adjustment, obviously, is a one-way street. Remove too much and the trigger needs to be replaced. I’m conservative by keeping reliability in mind.

Spring rates are all stock. The hammer of the 745 appears to have less mass than a 1911 giving it a fast lock time and because of this I would reduce the main spring (hammer spring) little if at all.

Many later design pistols require a lot of trigger free play because it’s needed to move the firing pin block/lock.

The 1911 are a very interesting platform from its temperamental ness to the shear variation of aftermarket magazine designs and accessories. It has been a learning experience.

July 21, 2012, 03:36 PM	#129
745SW Senior Member Join Date: August 25, 2011 Location: California Posts: 776	Would you trust your life to a 1911? Nope. I’ve had three Colt Gold Cups and now it’s down to only one. Broke many a magazine by fracturing the weld at the floor plate, ammo would suddenly be on the ground. Played with the extractor by bending it and taking a Dremel to it. Dremeled the two-piece feed ramp too. I believe the issue is the design not workmanship or material. I’ve had Colt Gold Cups that were non symmetrical in terms of machining of the flat area of the dust cover that was obvious with the naked eye comparing right to left sides of the pistol. Even the Phyton I have has non-symmetry at the trigger guard, again comparing right to left sides. Aesthetics only perhaps but I don’t like it. Issues with the 1911 date back to at least Jeff Cooper’s time when he pointed out when the staked plunger tube becomes unglued. The plunger tube houses the spring loaded pins for the takedown lever and safety located at the top of the left grip panel. My choice for a 45ACP is the S&W 745. Never had a need or desire to take a Dremel to any of my 745’s. As some would say my S&W’s would eat virtually anything and not complain/hiccup. Like many auto-loaders the 745 appears to take after the Browning Hi-Power with no barrel bushing, plunger tube or welded magazine floor plate. Personally I group the 1911 with P-08 Luger, aesthetically appealing and interesting design but not very practical for actual use. Edit: Something’s I should have mentioned or clarified. I have taken a Dremel to my some of my 745’s not because of reliability issues but because of preference. Some material at the top of the trigger where it engages the trigger bar is removed to shorten the free play of the trigger, this free play is the movement of the trigger before the trigger actually moves the sear. This usually requires a fair amount of material removal. Another area of slight material removal is at the hammer spur because of its sharp edges. I only used the emery embedded rubber wheel of the Dremel manually without the power tool of the Dremel. The trigger of the 745 is unusual it that it has absolutely no interaction with the safety on the slide. The hammer can be dropped with the safety on, kinda funky and something to keep in mind. Trigger bar is dual sided giving no feel of flex at all. Trigger has two adjustments, backlash adjustment screw is mounted on the frame and is clearly visible. Trigger position screw is within the frame out of view, it positions the trigger relative to the frame or trigger guard. Free play has no adjustment is the reason for the above material removal, this adjustment, obviously, is a one-way street. Remove too much and the trigger needs to be replaced. I’m conservative by keeping reliability in mind. Spring rates are all stock. The hammer of the 745 appears to have less mass than a 1911 giving it a fast lock time and because of this I would reduce the main spring (hammer spring) little if at all. Many later design pistols require a lot of trigger free play because it’s needed to move the firing pin block/lock. The 1911 are a very interesting platform from its temperamental ness to the shear variation of aftermarket magazine designs and accessories. It has been a learning experience. Last edited by 745SW; July 25, 2012 at 11:31 AM.