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Old April 19, 2012, 06:40 PM   #14
Sarge
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 12, 2002
Location: MO
Posts: 5,453
Quote:
You Sir, are incorrect in ALL your statements and thoughts concerning a roll crimp vs taper crimp in that autoloading pistol.
IF you do not know HOW to adjust a roll crimp 44MAG die say so and maybe, MAYBE, we can help you here.
EVERY one of those pistols is test fired at the factory with 44MAG ammunition with a very TIGHT roll crimp properly applied in the correct position, and for all the correct reasons.
And so it goes...
Ol' Will knows whereof he speaks. He don't like to toot his own horn but he has probably made, or overseen the making, of more factory ammo than any ten of us will shoot in that many years.

I got on a heavy-bullet, hot load kick a few years ago and the gun I was shooting the most was a 4" Model 29-2. No, this is not a good idea. But I did it anyhow and my heaviest 300 grain loads would walk out some by the 4th or 5th round fired. Neck tension was excellent with the new Starline brass I was using. I was running a heavy roll crimp and I eventually started taper crimping them, too, right over the roll. This eliminated the problem in that particular gun. I'm not saying this is great or even recommending anyone else do it- just passing on my experience with it.

I can't think of any reason, other than that particular manufacturer's recommendation, why you couldn't run a taper crimp on a non-cannelured bullet. I taper crimp my auto pistol loads into a cast bullet about half the thickness of the case mouth, and if they were inaccurate I would have discontinued the practice long ago. I crimp the few jacketed bullets I load pretty firm too; you can feel the bump on the press handle when it sets. Again, no accuracy problems and certainly no problems with setback despite repeated trips up the feedramp.
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