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Old September 20, 2012, 07:36 AM   #33
Hal
Senior Member
 
Join Date: October 9, 1998
Location: Ohio USA
Posts: 8,563
Don't pull .22 bullets and substitute was.

A .22 is a heeled bullet. The bullet is the same diameter as the outside of the case. If you put a wax bullet inside the case, it will be undersized & the gases from the primer will blow past the base and melt it.
You end up with a pretty messy and inaccurate load.

What you do is:

Place a large cake pan on the top of the range and fill it half full of water.
Place a smaller pan inside it.
(You making a double bolier. The burner heats the water, and the hot water heats the inner pan where the was is.)
Never melt parrafin was directly on a burner. Sooner or later it will flash on you and catch fire.

Place your parrfin wax in the inner pan.
Take empty unprimed shells of whatever caliber you wish to shoot - .38, .44. .45acp, 9mm - whatever.
Determine how much melted wax will fill the empty case 1/2 full.
I take a pencil and an empty case, hold the case against the side of the pan and draw a line that's about half way up the case body.
Melt that much wax in the inner pan and remove it from the outer pan.

Invert your empty unprimed cases in the wax & set the pan aside to cool.

When the wax has hardened, you simply remove the cases and put a primer in them.
Regular primers will work fine for short (~ 25 feet) distances, magnum primers will work for about half again to twice that distance.

Obviously, the ammo won't operate a semi auto action & with no bullet to guide on a feed ramp, they may not feed well.
Be sure in that case to heed all warnings about running a slide closed on a chambered round. It's not recommended on a 1911.

It's also highy recommended to enlarge the flash hole in the primer pocket.
W/out a powder charge to force the case back against the recoil shield of a revolver, the flash from the primer will often back the primer out of the pocket & tie up the revolver's action.

If you also reload, it's important to mark these cases somehow so they don't get mixed in with the regular brass.

& yes ---before anyone thinks/or asks it - a very small charge of smokless

(Never to exceed 1/3 of the starting load listed in the loading data for that caliber w/the lightest bullet weight.)

can be trickled into the case through the enlarged flash hole prior to priming the case.
I used a medium fast powder (Unique) instead of a fast power (Bullseye).
Fast powders like Bullseye don't have enough bulk.
It's just too hard to get a small load of Bullseye. A lot of the starting loads are only 3.5 to 4 grains.

Sadly - the bliss ninnys have taken over my city & the laws now read that I can't launch any projectile over any part of any propety within the city limits.
It's now illegal to even shoot a BB gun in the basement (not that anyone would know - but still...).

Quote:
These are small pistols that shoot lead BB's,,,
The charge is a cap designed for cap and ball revolvers.
Wow - that takes me way back.....
When I was a kid (1960's), all the outdoor magazines use to have an ad in the back pages for,,,IIRC, a Western Haig pistol.
It was a pot metal single shot that used a piece of birdshot & regual cap gun caps.
The price of the thing was $3.00 plus shipping.
We never managed to scrape together enough money among us to buy one & pay for the shipping & also buy a money order....

That & they had some silly requirment that you had to be 21...

Last edited by Hal; September 20, 2012 at 07:43 AM.
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