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Old July 29, 2010, 05:27 PM   #8
Model-P
Senior Member
 
Join Date: February 24, 2009
Posts: 727
Quote:
Now ... I really want to learn how to adjust the bolt that IS falling onto the leading edge of the cylinder notch, so that it falls BEFORE the leading edge of the cylinder notch. I wanna learn that !
The bolt has two spring legs on the end opposite that of the bolt head itself. One of those legs rides up on the cam on the side of the hammer as it is cocked. If that leg is shortened, the leg will slip off the cam sooner and the bolt head will drop to the cylinder sooner. Just file the leg a little at a time, maintaining the angle that is on it to begin with, and test the action until the bolt drops where you want it to.

Quote:
Do they sell 3a. and 3b. in nicely labeled bottles because I WANT some of that magic !
The timing of the bolt dropping into the notch is dependent on the rotation of the cylinder. If the cylinder is ahead of itself, the bolt will drop into the notch before the sear has a chance to engage full cock. If the cylinder is too far behind, the sear will engage full cock before the bolt drops into the notch.

The cylinder's rotation is dictated by the hand. Therefore, the hand is the critical component when timing that 3rd click (actually, 3a. and 3b.). If the hand is too long, the cylinder will be ahead of itself, and if too short, the cylinder will be behind. If the bolt is dropping into the notch before the sear engages, then the hand is too long and needs to be shortened. If the bolt is dropping into the notch after the sear engages, the hand is too short and should be replaced with one that can be fit to the proper length. When fiting hands, file just a very little at a time, maintaining the same angle, and test repeatedly until the two clicks merge into one. Don't mess with the trigger sear!

Last edited by Model-P; July 29, 2010 at 05:37 PM.
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