[Bill Akins]

Since your conversion cylinder fits fine, I wouldn't mess with shaving the breech end of the barrel for when you use your percussion cylinder so the wedge can go in all the way, ......since that would open up a larger barrel to cylinder gap when you used your conversion cylinder that currently fits fine.

Instead just get some 220 wet/dry sandpaper and place it on a flat (like glass) surface and wet it. Then put your percussion cylinder face down on it and pushing down evenly, spin it and spin it so the sandpaper evenly sands off a little off the face of the percussion cylinder. Checking it for proper fit and that the wedge goes further in by putting it back in the gun's frame every so often until the wedge will go in all the way to where the spring just exits the other side of the barrel. Keep checking it for fit as you do it because you don't want to over sand it. Make sure you keep an even downward pressure at all times so it won't sand too much off one area and not another. Also the reason you spin it to sand it is so it won't sand off unevenly like it could if you just pushed it back and forth. Once you spin sand off enough (it won't take too much), and it fits correctly, then dab on some cold blue to the face of the cylinder to reblue it. Easy peasy fix and by sanding the percussion cylinder, you don't change anything on the frame or barrel of the revolver that could negatively affect it working with the conversion cylinder.

Purists will cringe over my changing the face of a .455 Webley revolver cylinder to accept .45 auto rim. But over 30 years ago I had this old Webley revolver in .455 caliber. No .455 ammo around for it locally back then. .45 auto rim would fit fine in the chambers but the .455 rim was thinner than the .45 auto rim so in order to use .45 auto rim that had a thicker rim, I had to remove steel from the rear face of the cylinder in order for the topbreak Webley to close.

I had this old antique hand cranked drill press that belonged to my grandfather and was at least 100 years old. I found a drill bit that was just under the diameter of the center hole in the Webley's cylinder. I wrapped tape around the drill bit til the Webley's cylinder fit tightly around the bit. Chucked the bit into the drill press and holding a file so that the non striated file side was against the star area so it wouldn't file the star area, I started cranking the drill press so the rear of the cylinder was turning against the file I was holding. That worked great.

I'd crank the drill press to turn the cylinder against the file a bit, then check the cylinder in the frame until I got it to where it would accept .45 auto rim and the topbreak Webley would close. A little dab of cold blue on it and I was done and ready to shoot .45 auto rim.

Yes the .455 bore of the barrel was just a teeeeny bit larger than the .45 auto rim projectile, but it was still accurate enough for plinking. Same is true for those Canadian or British .455 model 1917 S&W's that people have converted to shoot .45 acp in moon clips or .45 auto rim. I wouldn't do it today because my 1915 birds head grip Webley would be too valuable to do that with today. But that was over 30 years ago when the old Webley wasn't as valuable unaltered as it is today, and I just wanted to shoot it and no .455 ammo was available in my area back then. So no purist flaming please! Lol.

That worked perfect and got the old Webley to where it could shoot .45 auto rim. Still kick myself for trading that Webley.

But the point is, you don't need to remove anywhere near as much material off the cylinder as I did for that, and I was removing material off the rear of the cylinder and having to be careful not to file any of the ratchet area, whereas you would be removing material off the front face of your percussion cylinder with no ratchet area to be careful about.

But the idea is the same. You need to evenly remove some material off the front face of your percussion cylinder. But the amount you need to remove is so little, I wouldn't trust spinning it against a file like I did. Much less chance of removing too much if you use wet/dry sandpaper, plus it will be easier for you because you aren't having to file the rear face of the cylinder and ejector while being careful not to file the ratchet like I was having to do. Since you aren't filing around a ratchet, you can just sit the whole cylinder face down on the wet/dry sandpaper and spin it by hand. Might take a while and many spins, but easy to do.

Try what I told you, and let us know.



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