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Old February 23, 2012, 04:29 PM   #5
Scharfschuetzer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: January 28, 2012
Location: Puget Sound
Posts: 293
I should amplify my comments a bit.

I generally use Alox lube on my cast rifle bullets and I normally cast them from wheel weights with enough tin or linotype in the mix for the aloy to fill out my moulds well. Some batches of WWs work just fine without adding any tin.

I generally size my 30 cal rifle bullets to .309, although I have one Colorado Custom mould that will drop my alloy out at .309 and thus takes no sizing for my Krag and Springfields. Slug your bore and then size a thousandth above your groove diameter to start with. Experiment from there using larger sizes once you establish a baseline of performance. Most cast bullet shooters feel that the less you size, the better and I fall into that camp.

Most of my rifle bullets, including the short little M1 Carbine design mentioned above are gas check designs. I like the Hornady crimp on style, but I use the older Lyman design too.

With bullets running in the neighborhood of a Brinell hardness of 12 to 14, I get no leading at velocities of 1800 fps. I have friends that push harder bullets faster, but I've never seen the need to do so as I view the cast bullets as plinkers and vermin rounds. Still, a challenge is a challenge and they find satisfaction of getting the ninth degree of performance from their bullets.

For accuracy and consistancy, visually check your bullets for properly filled in lube grooves and a square base. Toss any back into the pot if they are marginal or have a visual void.

For the absolute best accuracy, get an average weight for the bullet design and its alloy and then weigh each of the bullets. Toss any that are on either side of the bell curve weight wise back into the re-melt tin.

If you want to harden the bullet more than its alloy allows, quench them in cold water after casting. Note: Keep the water away from your lead pot. A drop of water in the molten lead can cause a catastophic blow out of the liquid lead due to the steam produced by the water's contact with it.

Once your mold starts casting well (cold molds don't), try and not overheat it. You can tell if it is too hot by the frosted look of your bullets. Some of my friends like to cast frosted bullets and claim that it is better. I'm not in that camp, but they do good shooting with them so who knows.

Speaking of mold temperature. You probably won't be able to overheat a .22 cal mold. Just too much mass to my way of thinking, but I've never cast a .22 bullet so I'm just guesing here. Perhaps someone with more experience casing small bullets can comment.
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Scharfschuetzer
US Army Distinguished Rifleman
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Last edited by Scharfschuetzer; February 23, 2012 at 04:40 PM.
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