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Old August 16, 2013, 10:57 AM   #18
44 AMP
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Join Date: March 11, 2006
Location: Upper US
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The model 12 is one of the all time great pump shotguns. Not as slick feeling as the later designed twin action bar pumps, it is nevertheless, hell for stout, works reliably and dependably in the worst conditions and has a long proven history.

A couple of things you need to know about the Model 12, first, never, ever shoot steel shot in a factory original barrel!!!!!!

Second, most model 12s do NOT have a disconnector. (only the last production versions have them, so I've heard. I know for a fact that the early guns do not. What this means is that if you are holding the trigger back when you close the gun, it WILL FIRE!!!

Third, you have to give the forend a little push forward, after firing, to get the action to unlock. Usually, holding the forend firmly during recoil takes care of this. But if not, just push forward, then back to open the action after firing.

Fourth, expect the gun to pattern extra tightly with regular modern ammunition. Model 12s were choked to provide the rated pattern percentages with the old style shotgun shells. Roll crimp paper shells with card wads over the shot, and fiber wads underneath. No shot cup. Modern plastic shells with their star crimps and shot cups produce much tighter patterns than the older type shells, so less choke is needed in the barrel to get the needed percentage, which means the old guns have tighter bores than guns made today.

My Grandfather's rule of thumb for checking a full choke 12ga was to balance a dime in the muzzle. If the dime didn't fall through, the gun was choked tight enough to give full choke patterns. Put a dime in the muzzle of any modern full choke gun, and watch it fall right through.

This tighter bore constriction than what is used today means that you should never, ever, shoot steel shot through the gun. A bulged barrel is very likely if you do!

Quote:
Is it hard to switch barrels? LIke I said I want a 20 " for shooting things at the range.
It is a job for a qualified gunsmith to switch the barrel. The barrel is screwed into the barrel extension, which attached to the receiver with an interrupted thread.

Changing the barrel assembly (everything in front of the receiver) is fairly simple.

First, push the large pin at the end of the magazine tube out (this pin is captive, does not come all the way out). Then, using the large pin as a lever, rotate the magazine tube 1/4 turn, and pull it forward. (note that on guns where it isn't tightened correctly the barrel clamp may come loose. if it does, its not a big deal, we'll put it back in place and tighten the screw when we put the gun back together)

slide the forend forward until the action bar clears the receiver extension, then rotate the receiver extension 1/4 turn and remover it. The gun is now broken down for storage. Assemble in reverse order.

On a gun in good shape, it only takes a few seconds to break it down. Putting it back together takes a few seconds longer, but its still pretty quick.

If you want to make a Model 12 into a quick change barrel gun, you need to swap everything in front of the receiver. Barrel, extension, mag tube, forend, (all of it assembled as a unit). Swapping assemblies is pretty quick, but more complicated than guns designed decades later.

Bear in mind that Winchester did not sell the barrel assemblies as regular spare, or extra parts. Get you hands on a set today, and what you have is the parts that came off some other gun. And you should have the headspace on your receiver checked if you swap the barrel assemblies. Unlike more recent designs with fixed headspace quick change barrels, the Model 12 can be adjusted (by a competent gunsmith) allowing the gun to last virtually forever. But this means that the barrel group from one gun might not have the proper headspace on another receiver.

Also be aware that 20" riot barrels do exist, but are very rare, and expensive. And they are normally only found on the collectable riot guns, not as parts. However, there are short barrels out there, ones made by cutting off longer barrels. Sometimes the bead was replaced, sometimes not.

My 16th birthday present, 40 some years ago, was a 30" full choke Model 12, made in the 1920s. Love that gun! When I got the bug for a riot length gun, I wound up buying another model 12 at a gunshow, one that someone had already cut down. I still have both guns, they aren't going anywhere!
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