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603Country · December 25, 2013, 11:47 AM

Pahoo, I had to look up a diagram on attachment of the stock on that rifle. I have a 39A, but could not remember how the stock was attached to the action. Since the attachment is only by screws through the upper and lower metal straps extending from the action, then that's where the problem of a loose stock has to be. If it was my rifle, I'd remove the stock, paying close attention to how tight the screws are in the wood. Could be that one or both have been stripped out a bit and are loose. If that's the problem, I'd drill out the holes to a larger size and then glue in a carefully fitted new and round bit of walnut or oak (something stout, unlike Pine). I'd use Titebond glue, which I (as a woodworker) have a lot of on hand. Wait a day or two for it to dry completely and then redrill (very carefully) a hole somewhat smaller than the screw and then install the screws. Another, and somewhat easier, way to do that would be to just insert some good tough wood into the hole and glue it in place, let the glue dry, and then reattach the screws. I'd do it the first way, but I have every tool you can think of. This second way should work fine also.

If, however, the screws being loose isn't the problem, then I would shim up the recesses (inletted areas) in the stock where the two metal straps are carefully fitted. That would bring the areas of contact between the stock and the action metal back to where it should be. If carefully done, the metal will completely hide the shims. I'd use wood for the shims if possible, and preferably a dark Walnut, and glue it into place so there'd never be any wiggle that would loosen it up again. If the shims are going to be real thin, then I'd probably try to go with a shim just on the lower (lever side) strap and then sand that shim until I got a glove fit of the metal to wood.

Again, I'd use Titebond glue (Titebond III is waterproof if that's of any interest) and not use a Polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue. Those foam and expand.

Anyway...that's how I would approach it. And if the OP lives in Texas, just drive on over here and have a beer while I do it for you.

December 25, 2013, 11:47 AM	#10
603Country Senior Member Join Date: January 6, 2011 Location: Thornton, Texas Posts: 3,998	Pahoo, I had to look up a diagram on attachment of the stock on that rifle. I have a 39A, but could not remember how the stock was attached to the action. Since the attachment is only by screws through the upper and lower metal straps extending from the action, then that's where the problem of a loose stock has to be. If it was my rifle, I'd remove the stock, paying close attention to how tight the screws are in the wood. Could be that one or both have been stripped out a bit and are loose. If that's the problem, I'd drill out the holes to a larger size and then glue in a carefully fitted new and round bit of walnut or oak (something stout, unlike Pine). I'd use Titebond glue, which I (as a woodworker) have a lot of on hand. Wait a day or two for it to dry completely and then redrill (very carefully) a hole somewhat smaller than the screw and then install the screws. Another, and somewhat easier, way to do that would be to just insert some good tough wood into the hole and glue it in place, let the glue dry, and then reattach the screws. I'd do it the first way, but I have every tool you can think of. This second way should work fine also. If, however, the screws being loose isn't the problem, then I would shim up the recesses (inletted areas) in the stock where the two metal straps are carefully fitted. That would bring the areas of contact between the stock and the action metal back to where it should be. If carefully done, the metal will completely hide the shims. I'd use wood for the shims if possible, and preferably a dark Walnut, and glue it into place so there'd never be any wiggle that would loosen it up again. If the shims are going to be real thin, then I'd probably try to go with a shim just on the lower (lever side) strap and then sand that shim until I got a glove fit of the metal to wood. Again, I'd use Titebond glue (Titebond III is waterproof if that's of any interest) and not use a Polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue. Those foam and expand. Anyway...that's how I would approach it. And if the OP lives in Texas, just drive on over here and have a beer while I do it for you.