[James K]

Hi, Mike and guys,

Here is what I have so far. In serial numbers, * represents a gap, + represents the lanyard loop hole, <( and ) represent the ends of the butt, with <( or )> indicating the front.

1. Through 999999, no V. The serial number is stamped reading from the rear of the butt toward the lanyard loop hole. Example: (946xxx + )>

2. V 1 through about V 300000. The serial number is stamped reading from the lanyard loop hole toward the rear of the butt. The V is to the right of the hole. Example <( + V121xxx ).

3. About V 300000 through about V 750xxx. The serial number is stamped from the lanyard loop hole toward the rear of the butt. The V is to the left of the hole. Example <( * V * + 486xxx )

4. From about S V 750xxx through about S V 774xxx. The serial number is stamped from the lanyard loop hole toward the rear of the butt. The letter "S" (new hammer block safety) is stamped between the "V" and the front of the butt. The letter "S" is stamped on the sideplate indicating the revolver was changed during production or after completion.
Example <( * S * V * + 724xxx )

5. From about S V 774*** to end of production. The serial number is stamped from the lanyard loop hole toward the rear of the butt. The letter "S" is stamped between the "V" and the front of the butt. There is no "S" on the sideplate. Example <( * S * V* + 800xxx )

I have to credit several sites and sources, too many to list here, but I appreciate the information.

P.S. Note the first example. That number arrangement should unmask fake Victory Models made from ordinary M&P's of the 1920's and 1930's.

P.P.S. Mike, I have seen a report of a VS serial VS825xxx, but no picture, so that one is in the question category.

Jim

Edited to number the marking variations for reference.

JK