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Tuzo · May 21, 2008, 08:45 PM

I had a 686 that, after a few jacketed rounds, would experience cylinder bind. Turned out a very slight flaw in the forcing cone - a metal burr - would strip and build up copper between the end of the forcing cone and cylinder. A quick honing repaired the problem and then I sold it.

My current inventory includes pre-lock 4" and 6" 686, 6" GP100, and 6" Security-Six. All are great shooters with the 6" 686 and 6" GP100 enjoying an accuracy advantage. The GP100 required a simple trigger job involving polishing some mating surfaces and now has a smoother trigger than both 686s. I suggest buying either the Smith or the Ruger based on personal esthetics and how they feel in the hand.

May 21, 2008, 08:45 PM	#14
Tuzo Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2007 Location: Louisiana Posts: 797	Cylinder binding and model choice I had a 686 that, after a few jacketed rounds, would experience cylinder bind. Turned out a very slight flaw in the forcing cone - a metal burr - would strip and build up copper between the end of the forcing cone and cylinder. A quick honing repaired the problem and then I sold it. My current inventory includes pre-lock 4" and 6" 686, 6" GP100, and 6" Security-Six. All are great shooters with the 6" 686 and 6" GP100 enjoying an accuracy advantage. The GP100 required a simple trigger job involving polishing some mating surfaces and now has a smoother trigger than both 686s. I suggest buying either the Smith or the Ruger based on personal esthetics and how they feel in the hand.