The Firing Line Forums - View Single Post - Sear for pre-64 model 94 Winchester

270 · June 15, 2011, 11:51 AM

Got the gun back together and now have a trigger pull around 10 1/2 lbs.

Am now at what they call "Where the rubber meets the road." That is doing a good job on the nose of that sear. I have a Brownells fine India stone and tried to smooth the sear nose but noticed I was having trouble doing it accurately so quit and assembled gun.

How does a gunsmith do a neat job on the nose, maintaining the correct angle and keeping it straight across? It's very difficult to avoid "rocking" the stone and thus lose the straight nose and proper angle. It's hard to see well enough even with my 2x magnifying glasses plus my eye glasses.

I would think a small milling machine with machinest vice and dial indicator would be the best way to do a perfect job on the nose.

I can see why many would say--let a good gunsmith do that job. My experience with gunsmiths has not been very good.

I was really surprised when, after assembly,the hammer would not stay back on full cock when pulled back with my thumb but would stay back when I worked the lever and bolt. I backed-off on the hammer spring tensioning screw and problem fixed. I hardly have any tension or pressure on this screw now and still the hammer pulls back pretty hard. Harder than my Browning 1886 SRC. The tension screw was also causing it to lever harder than normal.

I believe this 1886 may have a coil hammer spring rather than a flat one. This could cause a different feel when cocking.

I've shot the gun 12 time since assembling it. Working fine except for extra hard trigger pull. It and my Browning 1886 are both great for a quick sight picture. Bring them to shoulder, cheek weld and you're on.

Seems I read somewhere that you can remove a little metal from the hammer spring to lighten pull. Expect this is a good way to ruin the spring unless you do it right. Doing it right, I would think, means you remove metal from a large area of spring and not just one small area. Weaken one small area and spring would be much more apt to break. Too, you might weaken it to where firing pin does not hit primer with enough force.

270

June 15, 2011, 11:51 AM	#7
270 Senior Member Join Date: October 9, 2010 Posts: 126	Sear for pre-64 model 94 Winchester Got the gun back together and now have a trigger pull around 10 1/2 lbs. Am now at what they call "Where the rubber meets the road." That is doing a good job on the nose of that sear. I have a Brownells fine India stone and tried to smooth the sear nose but noticed I was having trouble doing it accurately so quit and assembled gun. How does a gunsmith do a neat job on the nose, maintaining the correct angle and keeping it straight across? It's very difficult to avoid "rocking" the stone and thus lose the straight nose and proper angle. It's hard to see well enough even with my 2x magnifying glasses plus my eye glasses. I would think a small milling machine with machinest vice and dial indicator would be the best way to do a perfect job on the nose. I can see why many would say--let a good gunsmith do that job. My experience with gunsmiths has not been very good. I was really surprised when, after assembly,the hammer would not stay back on full cock when pulled back with my thumb but would stay back when I worked the lever and bolt. I backed-off on the hammer spring tensioning screw and problem fixed. I hardly have any tension or pressure on this screw now and still the hammer pulls back pretty hard. Harder than my Browning 1886 SRC. The tension screw was also causing it to lever harder than normal. I believe this 1886 may have a coil hammer spring rather than a flat one. This could cause a different feel when cocking. I've shot the gun 12 time since assembling it. Working fine except for extra hard trigger pull. It and my Browning 1886 are both great for a quick sight picture. Bring them to shoulder, cheek weld and you're on. Seems I read somewhere that you can remove a little metal from the hammer spring to lighten pull. Expect this is a good way to ruin the spring unless you do it right. Doing it right, I would think, means you remove metal from a large area of spring and not just one small area. Weaken one small area and spring would be much more apt to break. Too, you might weaken it to where firing pin does not hit primer with enough force. 270 Last edited by 270; June 16, 2011 at 11:43 PM.