Two months ago I ordered a Pietta 1858 New Army Model 44 in stainless steel with the 8" barrel. It was on sale for $299.00 at "C's" online sporting goods "Department store".
- It was date marked as a 2009.
- The cylinder pin was loose as a goose at the ears and where it inserted into the back of the frame.
- The cylinder rattled like a snake ready to strike.
- The cylinder over rotated past two of the cylinder notches. Scored the cylinder up real good right off the bat.
- The daylight coming through the flash gap was like a kid's kaleidescope, real purty, changed shape as I cycled through the chambers and everything.
- After removing the cylinder, getting the cylinder back in was an olympic event. Fine training!
- The loading lever at the tip had 1/4" of play in either direction.
- The hinge where the loading lever met the loading rod reminded me of the cymbals on a tambourine, looked like they were made in Tora Bora.
- The tip of the hammer would not fit into any of the safety notches and slipped off with any pressure against the cylinder. I mean ... crazy!
- The front sight was bent slightly to the left
- The interior of the frame was scored and ragged with file and tool marks, disgusting.
I sent it back to Cabela's the next day and it took 3 weeks to get a refund.
Dey said dey wuz sorree yeah! That cost $19 bucks in shipping.
So let me take a breath and thank all of you for supporting this forum. I've learned a tremendous amount about this pistol, about Uberti and Pietta and Euroarms, etc... from all of you. I really enjoy learning from the folks in this forum. Now I just want an 1858 as good as the ones you have!
I want one like they show in them nice pitchers on the websites!
I decided I would not risk ordering a Pietta again so I ordered an Uberti of the same type from "T's" except I upgraded to the target model. The rear sight fell off on the second shot. I thought I might lose a range buddy to multiple hernia brought on by hysterical laughter.
I sent it back the next day, big disappointment. I got a prompt refund. Generally it was a little better than puke and we weren't scairt to blast a bit with it. The barn door survived.
I recently ordered the same make and model Uberti from "D's". I had them promise me that the gunsmith would select from over 40 units they had in stock to make sure they got me one that locked up good and tight. I told them I would be more than willing to sacrifice a bit of beauty in the finish and wood to metal fit, etc... for a revolver that locked up good and tight.
I am composing them a letter which outlines the following:
1. Cylinder timing:
- the bolt is marking the cylinder, (it's doing this at consistent points on the cylinder almost exactly as it should).
- the bolt is falling too late and has peened the lead in edge of the bolt notches on the cylinder, (from cocking the pistol).
- as well, the bolt is too short on one side, or the bolt face is not level, (it's not making full contact with the interior of the bolt notch)
- close observation of the bolt face shows shiny on one side only, (shiny narrow triangle across the bolt face pointing to the non-contact area).
2. Cylinder lock up:
- because the bolt is not engaging the interiors of the bolt notches completely, the cylinder does not lock up tight at full cock or hammer down position.
- the bolt is engaging only one side of the bolt notch on the cylinder, thus some lateral cylinder play, (rattle).
- holding the piece by the barrel at the base pin ears, (trapping the base pin ears), and lightly tapping the butt in my hand I hear the slight rattle.
- sanding or filing the bolt down, (to level the bolt), will shorten the bolt. I think the bolt needs to be replaced it may be defective.
- there could be many reasons the bolt is behaving in this manner.
3. Very rough and coarse filing and/or grinding on the underside of the topstrap:
- goes without saying that cosmetically it moves the revolver closer to the "ugly" level.
- this very rough surface will collect black powder residue quickly, (it will cake), and will resist cleaning, it will pit and corrode quickly.
- the revolver was ordered in stainless steel to make cleaning easier and to avoid these issues, (and because the stainless is shiny and pretty).
- that this rough area will collect fouling much more rapidly will cause it to impede the function of the cylinder more rapidly during extended sessions.
There are significant file and tool markings in the bottom of the interior of the frame as well. Both the underside of the topstrap and the bottom of the interior of the frame show oxidation and darkening as a result of being left unpolished. The surfaces would be eaten up quickly by black powder residue that would be nearly impossible to clean out of these surfaces, pitting would result quickly.
There is a significant pit in the rear of the frame just to the left of the hammer, it's a big pit and will collect powder residue and other detrius and will hold moisture which will hasten the increasing depth of that pit. I figure that's about as much cosmetic sacrifice as one would have to make in order to assure the excellent mechanics of the cylinder and good tolerances all around. Everytime you look down the sights of the pistol, you see the pit and it will only get bigger with time and probably rapidly. Cleaning it out regularly with a pick will produce a hole quickly. I didn't expect this type of serious cosmetic flaw in a stainless steel revolver. And that sacrifice didn't get me positive cylinder lock.
Is this really one of the best out of almost 50 Uberti revolvers of this model?
4. Another area of concern with respect to tolerances is the installation of the front sight. There is some real daylight between the underside of the frontsight ramp and the top of the barrel. Three new $20 bills fit under the rear of the ramp. This area under the frontsight ramp, (especially in front of the dovetail near the muzzle), will pick up powder residue and will hold dirt and moisture and will hasten the pitting and degredation of the top of the barrel under the frontsight assembly. I do not see any method normally used in the regular cleaning of stainless steel black powder revolvers that will facilitate the care of this area.
It is unfortunate that I and others found the trigger exceptional and crisp, truly a fine, fine trigger and everybody who has looked at the piece lamented giving it up because of the trigger. The action is generally a pleasure also. I can only expect an exchange that will truly be a joy.
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So ... I'm not going to buffalo, and then midway, then texasjacks.com, then timbuktu and giving all of them a chance.
I've decided to stick with this vendor until I get a decent revolver from them. When I send this revolver back I will have spent $70 on shipping and return shipping and no joy.
I figure I'll give these folks at "D" one more try and then take what I get and spend $100-$150 on it at the gunsmith's.
I'm looking for suggestions on what to do here as I'm the point man for three other gentlemen who are all interested in getting one of these pistols. They are range buddies and one wants a cheap, efficient solution for putting down feral swine he is trapping off his property with one shot at close range.
Eventually, after we get 4 decent target model revolvers we would like to start shooting matches, hunt, etc ... We want to smoke some powder yeah?
I'm trying to make some lemonade here, anybody want a cup? It's free!