The Firing Line Forums - View Single Post

Tom2 · May 29, 2008, 05:57 PM

Usually the top breaks have the data on the top rib. I have not consulted any books but the top break resembles an Iver Johnson and the lower one resembles a U.S. Arms. The logo on the grips should be a clue. In the condition that appears in the photos, probably not worth very much exept as conversation pieces. Lot of the inexpensive revolvers made from 1870's to late 1920's resemble each other very closely. Would not fire or attempt to do anything like that with them unless they were in pristine condition and tight. Even then some are not safe except with black powder cartridges. Smokeless proofed ones will work with the commercial ammo with the lead bullets and rather cautious( they know someone will fire some in weak guns) loads that don't develop very high MV. I would not risk my fingers firing either one.

May 29, 2008, 05:57 PM	#2
Tom2 Senior Member Join Date: June 23, 2004 Location: Ohio Posts: 5,676	Usually the top breaks have the data on the top rib. I have not consulted any books but the top break resembles an Iver Johnson and the lower one resembles a U.S. Arms. The logo on the grips should be a clue. In the condition that appears in the photos, probably not worth very much exept as conversation pieces. Lot of the inexpensive revolvers made from 1870's to late 1920's resemble each other very closely. Would not fire or attempt to do anything like that with them unless they were in pristine condition and tight. Even then some are not safe except with black powder cartridges. Smokeless proofed ones will work with the commercial ammo with the lead bullets and rather cautious( they know someone will fire some in weak guns) loads that don't develop very high MV. I would not risk my fingers firing either one. __________________ Your gun is like your nose, it is just wrong for someone else to pick it for you!