The Firing Line Forums - View Single Post - Polishing the action of my Marlin Lever action

natman · November 29, 2010, 01:11 PM

This is what you should use:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...NSAS_STONE_SET

Not cheap, but you can use them for the rest of your life. Keep the stone oiled.

You can do it with OILED sandpaper stretched over a file, but believe me after you've had the sandpaper tear & slip a few times the Arkansas stones will be worth every penny.

This is NOT an activity where if 2 strokes are good, then 4 strokes are better and 10 strokes is the ultimate, so you should use 20 strokes. Stoning is in effect putting years of wear on your parts and you want to do it slowly and right. The idea behind using a stone is to knock off the high spots while removing the minimum amount of steel. That's all you want to do. Resist the temptation to stone some more to make the surface "perfect".

November 29, 2010, 01:11 PM	#4
natman Senior Member Join Date: June 24, 2008 Posts: 2,605	This is what you should use: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...NSAS_STONE_SET Not cheap, but you can use them for the rest of your life. Keep the stone oiled. You can do it with OILED sandpaper stretched over a file, but believe me after you've had the sandpaper tear & slip a few times the Arkansas stones will be worth every penny. This is NOT an activity where if 2 strokes are good, then 4 strokes are better and 10 strokes is the ultimate, so you should use 20 strokes. Stoning is in effect putting years of wear on your parts and you want to do it slowly and right. The idea behind using a stone is to knock off the high spots while removing the minimum amount of steel. That's all you want to do. Resist the temptation to stone some more to make the surface "perfect".