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Citizen Carrier · August 24, 2008, 02:57 AM

I got all my parts from here:

http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchan...egory_Code=VC2

For some reason, it was always cheaper here than to go directly from Volquartsen. I think Midway and Brownells might carry these parts too.

What I'd get:

Volquartsen Ruger Mark II and 22/45 Target Sear (yeah, it says Mk II, but if you click on it, you'll see it also works in the Mk III.) This isn't too tough to install.

Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor. It may eliminate the Ruger Stovepipe problem if you happen to experience it. If you find you are getting a lot of stovepipe jams, I know what is causing it. The extracted case is hitting the far side magazine lip (looking through the ejection port) before the case has a chance to hit the ejector. This causes the spent case to spin/tumble in the action and it gets wedged between the bolt and breech face before it can get thrown clear.

The Exact Edge might eliminate that or you might be lucky and not experiencing that jam at all.

The sure fix for that problem, in case anybody is interested, is this. First, determine that this is your problem.

With a magazine inserted, using either a spent case or VERY CAREFULLY, a live round, chamber the case. Now pull back on the bolt to extract it while watching through the ejection port. If you can see that the rim of the case is going to hit the magazine feed lip before it has a chance to hit the ejector, you're more likely to get the Ruger Stovepipe.

The fix is to put the magazine in a vice and either file or dremel that far side feed lip down until you can see that the rim of the case will hit the ejector rather than the feed lip. Don't worry, I've done a dozen magazines up like this for my Rugers and I never get the stovepipe.

Okay, back to the parts...

Volquartsen Ruger Mark II / III Adjustable Target Trigger. This is an outstanding trigger because it has both an overtravel stop and a pre-travel adjustment. You can take pretty much all the slop out of the trigger pull and tune it right to the point where it will break for the shot.

The VQ "Volthane" grips are very comfortable and I've owned a pair of them. I happen to like Herretts Stocks Ruger grip, which is wood and has an adjustable palm shelf. Buy it from anybody but Herretts directly and you'll probably get a better price.

The extended slide release is nice if you are using your Ruger in speed type matches like bowling pin shoots. If you aren't shooting in stuff like that, I wouldn't bother with it. Just pull the bolt back and chamber manually. Less parts wear that way...

Okay, here's the decision part.

The Mk III has extra little springs in the mechanism which make up the magazine safety disconnect. Meaning, you can't fire the gun unless there is a magazine in there depressing that spring.

I didn't like messing with that extra spring as it complicates putting in some of these parts, so I took it out and turned my Mk III into a Mk II.

Basically, this entails discarding the Mk III hammer and installing a Mk II hammer in it's place. You'll also need to either modify the hammer bushing by adding a thin washer to take up the space between the hammer and the slide release and trigger bar on that pin OR by ordering an oversized match Mk II hammer bushing from Clark Custom Guns.

The small washer is the easier fix. I found a small copper washer in the bolt bin in the motor pool. There were literally hundreds of them.

I think it makes the trigger pull even better and it enables the gun to function as a single shot if I don't happen to have magazines.

Something worth considering...

August 24, 2008, 02:57 AM	#6
Citizen Carrier Senior Member Join Date: July 10, 2008 Location: Columbus, OH Posts: 671	I got all my parts from here: http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchan...egory_Code=VC2 For some reason, it was always cheaper here than to go directly from Volquartsen. I think Midway and Brownells might carry these parts too. What I'd get: Volquartsen Ruger Mark II and 22/45 Target Sear (yeah, it says Mk II, but if you click on it, you'll see it also works in the Mk III.) This isn't too tough to install. Volquartsen Exact Edge Extractor. It may eliminate the Ruger Stovepipe problem if you happen to experience it. If you find you are getting a lot of stovepipe jams, I know what is causing it. The extracted case is hitting the far side magazine lip (looking through the ejection port) before the case has a chance to hit the ejector. This causes the spent case to spin/tumble in the action and it gets wedged between the bolt and breech face before it can get thrown clear. The Exact Edge might eliminate that or you might be lucky and not experiencing that jam at all. The sure fix for that problem, in case anybody is interested, is this. First, determine that this is your problem. With a magazine inserted, using either a spent case or VERY CAREFULLY, a live round, chamber the case. Now pull back on the bolt to extract it while watching through the ejection port. If you can see that the rim of the case is going to hit the magazine feed lip before it has a chance to hit the ejector, you're more likely to get the Ruger Stovepipe. The fix is to put the magazine in a vice and either file or dremel that far side feed lip down until you can see that the rim of the case will hit the ejector rather than the feed lip. Don't worry, I've done a dozen magazines up like this for my Rugers and I never get the stovepipe. Okay, back to the parts... Volquartsen Ruger Mark II / III Adjustable Target Trigger. This is an outstanding trigger because it has both an overtravel stop and a pre-travel adjustment. You can take pretty much all the slop out of the trigger pull and tune it right to the point where it will break for the shot. The VQ "Volthane" grips are very comfortable and I've owned a pair of them. I happen to like Herretts Stocks Ruger grip, which is wood and has an adjustable palm shelf. Buy it from anybody but Herretts directly and you'll probably get a better price. The extended slide release is nice if you are using your Ruger in speed type matches like bowling pin shoots. If you aren't shooting in stuff like that, I wouldn't bother with it. Just pull the bolt back and chamber manually. Less parts wear that way... Okay, here's the decision part. The Mk III has extra little springs in the mechanism which make up the magazine safety disconnect. Meaning, you can't fire the gun unless there is a magazine in there depressing that spring. I didn't like messing with that extra spring as it complicates putting in some of these parts, so I took it out and turned my Mk III into a Mk II. Basically, this entails discarding the Mk III hammer and installing a Mk II hammer in it's place. You'll also need to either modify the hammer bushing by adding a thin washer to take up the space between the hammer and the slide release and trigger bar on that pin OR by ordering an oversized match Mk II hammer bushing from Clark Custom Guns. The small washer is the easier fix. I found a small copper washer in the bolt bin in the motor pool. There were literally hundreds of them. I think it makes the trigger pull even better and it enables the gun to function as a single shot if I don't happen to have magazines. Something worth considering... __________________ Once you've got your sights adjusted to the ammunition you have, step away from the bench. In competition or the field...there are no benches.