Good write-up, Bill. Thankyou.
Quote:
|
when it actually goes into the slot you should not have to pull the spur on the hammer back more than another 1/4" for the gun to full cock.
|
If you can pull the hammer back that far after the bolt locks the cylinder, you have a LOT of slop in the whole mechanism.
Ideally, yes, the bolt should drop in the lead at about one full bolt width, maybe a bit more. Then the bolt should drop into the locking slot at the same moment the sear engages. O.K., if you have to have the timing off one way or the other, it is better to have the bolt lock the cylinder just an instant before the sear engages, but not the other way around. You don't want to have the sear engage before the cylinder is locked. This is why the hand length is determined by the sear positions, not by the action of the bolt. Then, the bolt is timed to the rest of the action.
Also, the trigger/bolt spring screw is supposed to be tight. If you want a weaker spring action, either bend the ear of the spring or buy a lighter spring. A loose screw can vibrate loose during firing and leave the bolt loose enough to allow the cylinder to move out of battery.
JMO, FWIW. YMMV, and all that jazz.