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Jim V · June 13, 1999, 07:53 PM

JJR, are you planning on installing a different factory trigger or an after market one with a stop screw installed?

I have replaced a lot of 1911 triggers and it is easy.

I remove the slide and all it's parts, set them aside.

Lower the hammer carefully. Drift out the mainspring housing pin, remove the mainspring housing, cock the hammer, remove the thumb safety, remove the grip safety, remove the hammer and sear pins and then the hammer and sear and disconnector. The next to last thing to remove is the magazine release. The old trigger should then slide out of the frame.

Try the new trigger, it should not fit (if after market), remove it and set the frame aside. Take a new 10" bastard mill file (medium cut)--it really doesn't matter what size file you use but a 10" one works best for me--and lay it on a flat surface. Holding the trigger so the bottom of the finger pad is flat on the file, draw it toward yourself. Draw the trigger 3 or 4 times and then do the same for the top flat of the pad. Then try to fit the trigger into the frame, It will start to slide in a little, continue drawing the trigger on the file until it will fit the frame with a little pressure and needing the same pressure to remove it. Set the file aside and take some fine garnet paper and continue the draw and try procedure until the trigger slides in the frame as if it were on bearings. You can polish the flats to a shine but it is not needed. I do like to take the edge of the file and file a small groove the length of the flats to provide room for lube but again they are not really needed.

Clean the garnet grit that may be still on the trigger, reassemble and away you go. Get to the range and adjust the stop screw, which I throw away.

Good luck

Additional: The flats I refer to are those that are on the top/bottom of the finger pad.
Once in a while you may need to polish the sides of the trigger bow that fits around the magazine. Inside and out.

------------------
Ne Conjuge Nobiscum

[This message has been edited by Jim V (edited June 14, 1999).]

[This message has been edited by Jim V (edited June 14, 1999).]

June 13, 1999, 07:53 PM	#9
Jim V Senior Member Join Date: January 31, 1999 Location: SE Michigan - USA Posts: 4,038	JJR, are you planning on installing a different factory trigger or an after market one with a stop screw installed? I have replaced a lot of 1911 triggers and it is easy. I remove the slide and all it's parts, set them aside. Lower the hammer carefully. Drift out the mainspring housing pin, remove the mainspring housing, cock the hammer, remove the thumb safety, remove the grip safety, remove the hammer and sear pins and then the hammer and sear and disconnector. The next to last thing to remove is the magazine release. The old trigger should then slide out of the frame. Try the new trigger, it should not fit (if after market), remove it and set the frame aside. Take a new 10" bastard mill file (medium cut)--it really doesn't matter what size file you use but a 10" one works best for me--and lay it on a flat surface. Holding the trigger so the bottom of the finger pad is flat on the file, draw it toward yourself. Draw the trigger 3 or 4 times and then do the same for the top flat of the pad. Then try to fit the trigger into the frame, It will start to slide in a little, continue drawing the trigger on the file until it will fit the frame with a little pressure and needing the same pressure to remove it. Set the file aside and take some fine garnet paper and continue the draw and try procedure until the trigger slides in the frame as if it were on bearings. You can polish the flats to a shine but it is not needed. I do like to take the edge of the file and file a small groove the length of the flats to provide room for lube but again they are not really needed. Clean the garnet grit that may be still on the trigger, reassemble and away you go. Get to the range and adjust the stop screw, which I throw away. Good luck Additional: The flats I refer to are those that are on the top/bottom of the finger pad. Once in a while you may need to polish the sides of the trigger bow that fits around the magazine. Inside and out. ------------------ Ne Conjuge Nobiscum [This message has been edited by Jim V (edited June 14, 1999).] [This message has been edited by Jim V (edited June 14, 1999).]