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Old May 27, 2013, 10:45 PM   #27
wpsdlrg
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Join Date: August 18, 2009
Posts: 826
Well good. With a short-chambered barrel, as you said, you'll have to finish ream anyway. So, the next thing to do is to determine if you need to remove any material from the barrel shoulder (at the end of the threads), or the receiver face, so that you can safely torque the barrel to 75 lbs/ft or so, without damaging the threads. I assume that you do not need to index the barrel for iron sights, or a "safety breech", so that is not an issue.

One question. Since you had to "modify" the threads.... is the barrel shank loose against the receiver threads, when partially screwed in ? By that, I mean, will the barrel rattle about, when only partially screwed in ? If so, this is not good. The barrel should thread into the receiver with no excess movement, indicating that the threads (of both) are compatible. Hopefully, the fit is good.

I agree with F.Guffey, for what it's worth, that 0.003" will be about right, give or take, for a gap between the receiver ring and barrel shoulder - BEFORE final torquing of the barrel. You can cut back the receiver face....or the barrel shoulder....either will do, to produce the gap needed. Starting with that sort of gap, then torquing the barrel to 75 - 80 lbs/ft, you should have no gap, in the end. That will snug everything up and produce support for the barrel in two places (the barrel face and barrel shoulder), which is desirable. But, it will not cause damage to the threads.
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