Continued from previous post.
I was in luck. A friend of mine had a spare STANDARD Remy 11 wooden fore end and tube, and is sending it to me. I ordered a standard tube cap so I can use the standard Remy 11 tube without an extension if I want to for skeet or bird or other hunting. And the standard Remy 11 tube, will also allow me to unscrew the standard cap, and screw on a tube extension. Here's the tube and wooden fore end pieces my friend is sending me. Of course I'll clean up the wooden fore end so it is more presentable.
Notice in this below pic that the receiver end of the standard Remy 11 tube is fine threaded to screw into the receiver.
And in this below pic, notice that the muzzle end of the mag tube is coarse threaded to accept the standard Remy 11 tube cap that holds on the standard Remy 11 wooden fore end.
Notice in the above pic, that the muzzle end of the STANDARD Remy 11 wooden fore end (my friend is sending me), is squared off and not like the beavertail muzzle end of my "sportsman" version. Compare the above photo of the standard wooden fore end with the below pic of my "sportsman" fore end. See how the muzzle end of my wooden fore end slopes up into somewhat of a "beavertail"?
I was going to get the plastic Ramline stock for the Browning auto 5, which the fore end fits the STANDARD Remy model 11 perfectly, but the butt portion needs to be dremel and drill modified to fit, plus the tang of the Remy receiver must be heated up and bent straighter, (since the Browning's tang is straighter, and thus you have to replicate the angle of the Browning's tang in order to use the butt portion of the Ramline stock), but if the wooden fore end my friend is sending me is not split or not split badly, I'll just stick to the wood since my existing wooden butt portion is in good shape and I don't relish heating up my tang to bend it, nor do I want an accident where I might snap off the tang, not after all this work.
For those who might want to know how to set their friction rings for different loads on ANY Remy model 11, Browning auto 5 or Savage 720, here's a drawing that shows how to do that.
And here's an exploded drawing of the Remington model 11 showing the parts. Note this is the STANDARD Remy 11, and NOT the Remy 11 "sportsman" version.
As a historical note, the Remington model 11, was used to train aircraft gunners during WW2. Here's a pic of a Remy 11 mounted to simulate an aircraft machine gun for aircraft gunnery training. This is similar to what I want to do with a Winchester model 50, since its barrel is stationary and doesn't move, and thus I can put a water jacket on it to keep it cool, since my next project after this one, is to make a inverted, hopper fed, crank fired, water cooled shotgun. That one won't be a quick project for sure.
I'll post more pics when I get the tube and fore end my friend is sending installed, and also when I get the tube extension installed. Might be a week or more til I get the parts from him and get the four shell tube extension ordered and installed, which will give me 8 shots unchambered, nine shots chambered. Much better for home defense than a two shot tube. I hope my project helps someone else with their Remy 11 "sportsman" version, as well as the standard Remy 11.
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