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DD4lifeusmc · December 29, 2012, 07:59 PM

Before we talk filing sightss and adjusting
unless I missed it what kind of rifle and what size.
Traditional old style or newer in line.
A few of the traditional had a fixed buckhorn rear site.
You could drift them sideways in the dovetail slot but not up or down.
Same with the fronts. In which case if it shot low you filed down the front.
But go easy a little can move it a lot.
And use a bench rest for stability.
Others had an elongated front to back buck horn rear sight.
These had a small set screw in the long portion that you screwed in to raise
rear site thus raising th POI. Or screwed out to to lower the rear and the POI.
If they were all the way down, then you would have to file the front site.
These could still be drifted sideways for windage.
Now some newer ones use more modern sights with internal micro adjustments for windage and elevation. These will normally have an external windage and elevation screw or knob.
Some have an elongated buckhorn rear sight. But have a notched ramp that slides the sight up and down.

But I would agree, use a bench rest and start at 25 yd to get centered.
Then determine what your realistically hunting shot will be. If real life max is 50 or 75 yds.
Then zero it for that.
Then move out to a hundred. Determine how high over you have to hold to hit center, but don't move the sight. Same for 50 yd. But hold low.
Remember every rifle has a sweet spot. Where at two given distances, the point of aim and point of impact will be the same as the bullet travels through it's trajectory arc.
I zero with a paper target. Then I practice on a 12" diameter steel plate hanging from a branch or such.
If I can consistently hit it standing, kneeling sitting prone (and I do) then I will have placed the bullet in a kill zone on a deer or elk.

December 29, 2012, 07:59 PM	#12
DD4lifeusmc Senior Member Join Date: October 12, 2012 Location: Wyoming Posts: 351	rifle shoot low Before we talk filing sightss and adjusting unless I missed it what kind of rifle and what size. Traditional old style or newer in line. A few of the traditional had a fixed buckhorn rear site. You could drift them sideways in the dovetail slot but not up or down. Same with the fronts. In which case if it shot low you filed down the front. But go easy a little can move it a lot. And use a bench rest for stability. Others had an elongated front to back buck horn rear sight. These had a small set screw in the long portion that you screwed in to raise rear site thus raising th POI. Or screwed out to to lower the rear and the POI. If they were all the way down, then you would have to file the front site. These could still be drifted sideways for windage. Now some newer ones use more modern sights with internal micro adjustments for windage and elevation. These will normally have an external windage and elevation screw or knob. Some have an elongated buckhorn rear sight. But have a notched ramp that slides the sight up and down. But I would agree, use a bench rest and start at 25 yd to get centered. Then determine what your realistically hunting shot will be. If real life max is 50 or 75 yds. Then zero it for that. Then move out to a hundred. Determine how high over you have to hold to hit center, but don't move the sight. Same for 50 yd. But hold low. Remember every rifle has a sweet spot. Where at two given distances, the point of aim and point of impact will be the same as the bullet travels through it's trajectory arc. I zero with a paper target. Then I practice on a 12" diameter steel plate hanging from a branch or such. If I can consistently hit it standing, kneeling sitting prone (and I do) then I will have placed the bullet in a kill zone on a deer or elk.