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Old October 8, 2010, 09:31 AM   #18
ssblair
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Join Date: April 29, 2010
Location: Indiana
Posts: 21
Quote:
Now I see that there are a lot of areas that need re-sanding. The areas show up lighter and almost 'hazy' in areas.
I've noticed that on an M14 stock that I've been refinishing, as well as an NOS Keystone scant stock for an '03 Springfield that I'm putting a few more coats of tung oil on, that I'm getting a few cloudy/hazy areas also. They go away when I wet the stock again, but come back when it dries. This is 6 or 7 coats in where I started to notice. I haven't done any resanding (other than the initial scrub with CitriStrip and a scotchbright pad to get the gunk off the M14 stock), just putting a dribble of straight PTO here and there and rubbing in for 5-10 minutes with my fingers for the most part. The first 3 or 4 coats where cut 1:1 with mineral spirits/Citrus solvent from The Real Milk Paint Co.

Since I've been doing this in my basement (dry, but relatively cool), I tried "warming up" the wood once with a hairdryer because I read somebody had good results doing that at one point somewhere, but I tried to avoid making any "hot spots". Could I have inadvertently cooked the oil in some spots? What might a remedy for that?

I've been continuing to wipe on straight PTO, then wiping down after a few hours, but I'm wondering if I should give it a once over with some 0000 scotchbright pads before my next coat. The wood looks great when it's wet; nice depth and grain, but I'm really looking for a satin/semi-gloss look and when its dry it is decidedly matte. Figured that once I get the depth and satin look with the oil, I'd seal it with Johnson Paste Wax.

Am I on the right track still?
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