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Old October 24, 2011, 07:24 AM   #9
Mobuck
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Join Date: February 2, 2010
Posts: 6,846
I would not recommend any "field stripping". Remove the forearm by taking out the screw at the front and pulling it off toward the muzzle. Since these don't have a bolt lock on them, take a long ziptie and tie the bolt back to the trigger guard then remove the magazine. Stand it up on it's muzzle end with some sort of support so you can leave it that way for a while. Make sure nothing is behind it that will be damaged by overspray. Using a can of Gunscrubber or Brake Parts Cleaner, hose out the inside of the action(don't get this stuff on the buttstock either) and the metal parts which were covered by the forearm. Using the little tip thingy, get some of the cleaner down in the gas port on the bottom of the barrel. Let the solvent run off and dry and then use some CLP, FP10, RemLube, or whatever you prefer to put some lube on everything that moves. It doesn't take much, just a drop. Clean the bore of any debris and make sure you get the chamber clean. Most of the chamber brushes that came with these rifles were lost, thrown away, or worn out years ago. I've used a shotgun bore brush (410 or 28) with an adaptor by putting a rifle rod down the barrel and then screwing the brush on from inside the action. Pull that up into the chamber after applying some solvent and turn the rod several revolutions to clear the residue from the chamber.
I've seen these rifles function when there was so much carbon and gunk in them that the barrel above the forearm was black and you really couldn't see rifling in the bore. Most people don't have a very high consideration of this model by for my part, I really never had a problem with them IF THEY HAD A MODICUM OF CARE.
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